Care Level: I'm Easy
About Your Indoor Jungle Delivered
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*Plants ship in grower pots
Numbers of Plants Included In Each Jungle
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Tiny Jungle - 2 Small & 2 Medium
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Urban Jungle - 2 Small & 2 Medium & 2 Extra Large
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The Amazon - 4 Small & 4 Medium & 2 Extra Large - MOST POPULAR!
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I'm In The Jungle Book - 4 Small & 4 Medium & 4 Extra Large - BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK!
Looking for a Pet-friendly Jungle? Click here!
Plant Care Guides
- Chamaedorea elegans
- Spathiphyllum
- Epipremnum aureus
- Ficus robusta 'Ruby'
- Ficus lyrata
- Rosa sinensis
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LightMedium
Prefers medium levels of indirect light.
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WaterLow
Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.
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HumidityMedium
Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 68 to 80
Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts below 50°F or it could slow their growth.
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Hardiness Zones10|11|12
Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 50°F.
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FertilizingMonthly
Apply a slow release fertilizer to the soil surface and as you water, the nutrients will release. Replenish as needed. Follow this fertilizing in the spring and summer months and slow down during the fall and winter time.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the Neanthe Bella Palm, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.
Add well-draining potting soil amended with perlite and rooting hormone to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, and if settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.
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CleaningMonthly
When watering your palm, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. If tips of the leaves are browning, trim the ends off to help the plant regain strength. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:
Place the palm in a shower or tub.
Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.
Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.
Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.
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PropagationDivision
To propagate your Neanthe Bella Palm:
Water your plant the night before dividing.
Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If it is root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.
Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.
Ensure you have several healthy stalks and leaves attached to the clumps.
Divide each clump into its pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for its roots to grow.
Plant in well draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set it in medium, indirect sunlight.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.
Keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.
Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while it recovers. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.
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LightMedium
Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.
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WaterMedium
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
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HumidityMedium
Prefers humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 65 to 80
Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.
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Hardiness Zones10|11
Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.
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FertilizingSeasonally
Peace lilies are not heavy feeders therefore, every six weeks is sufficient for their nutrient needs. Add a balanced liquid fertilizer to your water and dilute it by half. Fertilize throughout the late winter, early spring and summer months. Note: If your peace lily is not blooming, move them to a brighter area in the house to get indirect sun.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2"" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1"" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
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CleaningAfter bloom begins to die
Each time a flower blooms on the peace lily and turns brown, cut the stem off at the base. Prune off any yellowing leaves at the base of the stem. Clean any debris off the soil's surface. To clean, place the plant into a tub or shower. Use a watering can with a shower attachment using distilled, filtered, or water without chlorine or chemicals. Pour the water over the plant to wash away any dust. Do this each quarter to keep your plant's leaves clean.
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PropagationDivision
Propagate and divide your Peace Lily plant in the early spring.
Hydrate the plant the night before.
Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide and repot in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix, being aware that each new plant needs at least two or more leaves with sufficient roots attached.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.
Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.
Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.
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LightMedium
This plant loves low to medium indirect light.
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WaterLow
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
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HumidityHigh
Pothos love high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 70 to 90
Ideally, the Pothos grows their best when temperatures are between 70°-90°F.
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Hardiness Zones10|11
Outside: Grow in full sun (6-8 hours) to partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.
Indoors: The Golden Pothos prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
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FertilizingSeasonally
Fertilize every two to three months during their growing period in the spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball.
Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
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CleaningMonthly
To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles: Shower them from above. Fill a watering-can with filtered, distilled, or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours and is free of chemicals (chlorine or fluoride). Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any yellow leaves with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time. Prune the vines up to 2 inches from the soil line to create lushness at the top. As they spills over the rim of the container, trim to maintain their shape and size at your preference. Remove any dried or discolored leaves to keep the plant vigorous.
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PropagationStem Cutting
Stem Cutting: In early spring, take a pothos cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 5-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours.
After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.
Division: Divide the Golden Pothos in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and cut through the roots with a sharp knife or pruners. Repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix. Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the roots at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom if necessary. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight and water. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.
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LightMedium
Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.
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WaterLow
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
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HumidityMedium
Prefers humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Hardiness Zones10|11
Outside: Keep in shade on a patio where nights are above 60°F.
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FertilizingMonthly
Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month during the growing season.
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Re-potting3 Years
When receiving the Variegated Rubber Tree plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining potting mix half and half with a cacti and succulent potting mix to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.
Add the soil mix to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, loosen the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.
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CleaningMonthly
To prune these Rubber Tree plants, wear gloves to avoid skin irritation and use sharp, sterilized pruners. The best time to prune is in late spring or early summer. Cut right above the node (where leaves are attached to the stem), causing branching to occur for a bushier plant. Don't remove more than one-third of the plant's foliage to keep them healthy.
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PropagationCuttings
Take a stem cutting with sanitized pruners, 6-8 inches long with leaves attached. Trim off the bottom leaves on the stem.
Dip the stem in water, then rooting hormone. Stick the stem into the soil mix.
Use a pot with drainage and place the stem 1-2 inches down into the damp, well-draining, moist mixture of cacti and succulent soil and regular potting mix with perlite in equal parts.
Tamp down around the stem to secure. Place a clear plastic bag over the cutting to mimic a greenhouse and mist the bag.
Set in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure. Remove the plastic bag but maintain adequate humidity around the new plant.
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LightMedium
Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.
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WaterMedium
Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.
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HumidityHigh
Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 60 to 75
Avoid cold drafts under 50°F and no hotter than 95°F during the day.
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Hardiness Zones9|10|11
Outside: Grow in early morning sun (2-4 hours) where nights are above 50°F.
Indoors: The Fiddle Leaf Fig prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
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FertilizingMonthly
Fertilize once a month during the growing spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.
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Re-pottingYearly
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Note: If your Fiddle Leaf Fig has outgrown their space inside, cut back the roots by 20% to stunt their growth and add new potting soil to the existing container.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
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CleaningMonthly
Gently wipe clean with a soft, damp cloth or paper towel. Work gently from the stem's base toward the leaf's tip, cleaning both sides at once. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil.
Refreshen the soil mixture if needed.
Prune away damaged or diseased leaves down to the stem base with sterile scissors. To prune the Fiddle Leaf Fig, cut between two nodes (where the leaves emerge from the stem). Here the plant will stimulate new growth and branch into two stems, and form young leaves making the fig bushier. Use the pruned stems for propagation.
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PropagationStem Cutting
Take a cutting between two nodes (where the leaves emerge from the stem) with several leaves on the cutting.
Cut the leaves in half in order.
Place the cuttings in a clean glass jar filled with filtered or bottled water and place in a bright, indirect light spot. Change the water each week. After several weeks, white spots will begin to appear on the stem and after approximately 6-8 weeks, roots will emerge.
Use a pot with drainage. and place the roots and stem in damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem to secure.
Place the stem at least 1-2 inches down into the soil. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure.
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LightHigh
Outdoors:This plant loves the sun and can be put on a patio outdoors in full sun to part shade where the temperatures don't dip below 50°F. Indoors: The Hibiscus shrub can be overwintered indoors in a brightly lit location. These plants may drop their buds in protest when positions are changed.
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WaterMedium
Use unsoftened, filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Replenish the soil moisture when it falls below 5 on the plant meter. Keep them consistently moist during the growing season (but not soggy) and let them dry out to a 3 on the moisture meter in winter months when they are dormant. If yellowing leaves occur, back off on the watering and let the soil dry out a bit more between waterings.
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HumidityMedium
Hibiscus needs humidity at a rate of 40-60%. Use a pebble tray, humidifier and group plants together to raise the humidity levels.
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Temperature 50 to 79
This tropical plant loves warm climates and moderate humidity.
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Hardiness Zones9|10|11
This plant will not tolerate frost or temperatures below 60°F if left outside.
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FertilizingSeasonally
Container: When the plant is rootbound or there is dieback on their growth, they are ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter. Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim them off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles. Outdoors: Before planting the Hibiscus into the ground, water the plant in the grower pot well. Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise it above the soil level for good drainage. Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold. Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink. Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one-third to one-half (if the native soil is clay). Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture. Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container. Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water lightly. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.
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CleaningBi-annually
Prune in early spring and remove up to 1/3 of old wood to keep the plant blooming and dense with new growth.
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PropagationStem Cutting
Take green stem cuttings from the tips of the parent plant. Cut with sterile scissors taking a 3-6 inch cutting. Dip in rooting hormone and place them in moist potting soil. Cover with a clear plastic bag to retain moisture and humidity while they root. Keep the cuttings in bright, indirect light. After four weeks, check the rooting of the baby cutting by pulling gently on the leaf. If they are snug, then roots are forming. Keep them covered until new shoots appear. Remove the clear bag at this point and keep evenly moist and humidity levels high while they mature. Avoid moving locations during propagation.
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Customer Reviews
- LDLindy D.Verified BuyerI do not recommend this productWhat is your plant experience? BeginnerRated 1 out of 5 stars5 months agoQuite pricey for some sad plants
My extra large plants were very small :/
Dirt had spilt everywhere in the bags they were delivered in.
The bags were tied so tight that removing them caused a huge mess.
The pots were not the size that were described to me when purchased so my planter pots were all too big.
My flower died with in two days :/
Was this helpful? - BBBillie B.Verified BuyerI recommend this productWhat is your plant experience? BeginnerRated 5 out of 5 stars7 months agoI love my plants and
I love my plants and how fast I received them thank you
Was this helpful? - WSWendy S.Verified BuyerI recommend this productRated 5 out of 5 stars8 months agoPlant arrived safely, in healthy
Plant arrived safely, in healthy condition. It is lovely!
Was this helpful? - NBNicholas B.Verified BuyerI recommend this productRated 5 out of 5 stars9 months agoIndoor jungle purchase
The plants came in excellent condition, and very healthy.
Was this helpful? - YGYolanda G.Verified BuyerI recommend this productRated 4 out of 5 stars9 months agoGreat unexpected gift that lasts beyond the date.
Purchased these as a gift for my daughter. She was very excited, expressing her desire to have more plants in her home.
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