Bright, indirect light to filtered sun.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Enjoys moderate to high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Money Tree likes the room temperature at 72°F. They handle warmth rather than cold so keep them away from cold drafts.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: The Money Tree prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase and refrain from watering as much so they can rest.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Prune the leaves to stimulate new growth by cutting in front of a leaf node. Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep them healthy.

Stem Cutting: In early summer, take a stem cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 4-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours. After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it is time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

This plant prefers low to medium light.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

This plant doesn't require any extra humidity.

Avoid fluctuations in temperature keeping them away from drafts.

Outside: Grow in filtered morning light where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light but can tolerate low light conditions.

ZZ plants grow slowly. Therefore, they don't need a lot of fertilizer. Apply a balanced fertilizer in the early spring and summer at half strength.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-8 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the rhizomes that mimic potatoes. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the rhizomes. Notice if there are any dead or rot and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, separate the roots and rhizomes if you wish to make more plants. If not, remove any weak leaves off the plant to help revitalize their energy.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

When yellowing leaves occur throughout the season on mature plants, remove them. If stems become too arched or heavy, prune back as needed. To clean, shower them with filtered water or non-fluoridated water.

Indoors: Propagate and divide ZZ plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy.

Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the rhizomes. Carefully divide and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix.

Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to have room to grow.

Set in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Outdoors:

Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden.

Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a filtered morning sun location.

Water with filtered or rain water at the soil level.

Average comfortable room temperatures will be sufficient. These plants do not like heat or leaf discoloration will occur. 

Depending on the size and indoor temperatures only water this plant every 7-10 days.

Spritz daily

Average comfortable room temperatures will be sufficient. These plants do not like heat or leaf discoloration will occur.

Outdoor landscape plant in morning part shade (4-6 hours), where nights are above 55°F.

Water the plant before fertilizing to avoid fertilizer burn. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer into the water while watering. Use half the recommended strength. Fertilize in the spring and summer months but let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When the plant is ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing container. Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Tenderly lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant was rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level. Replant and water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles. Hydrate the leaves with filtered water by spritzing. Your plant may wilt at first from transplanting but will recover shortly.

Gently wipe clean with a soft damp cloth or paper towel. Work gently from the stem's base toward the tip of the leaf doing both sides at once. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil. At this time, keep a lookout for pests and treat or remove them. Refresh soil mixture if needed.

Prune away dead, damaged, or diseased leaves down to the stem base with sterile scissors or a knife. They can be pruned down to a manageable height if overgrown in early spring and summer. Cut off where you'd like new growth to start. Right below the cut, new growth will emerge.

To propagate this plant, you will take stalk cuttings in the early spring. This will cause the parent plant to branch eventually. Decide where you prefer the plant to branch. Trim the leaves away from the stalk all the way around to get a clean, proper cutting. Make a diagonal cut. With the cutting, remove the bottom leaves up 3-4 inches to expose the stalk. Place the stalk in a glass jar and fill with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week. After the roots are several months old, add to moistened potting soil and continue to water and give them the lighting requirements.

Bright, indirect light is the best for this plant.

Use filtered, bottled, or tap water that's sat 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, place them back into the cache or decorative pot. Avoid overwatering as it can suffer from root rot. Add water when the top several inches of soil are dry.

High home humidity between 50-60% is best for this plant. Add a pebble tray or humidifier around it.

This plant doesn't tolerate cold temperatures. Avoid cold drafts near doors, windows and air vents.

When using outdoors, this plant can handle early morning sun in partial shade or dappled light. Shade them from direct, full sun or the leaves will burn and get crispy.

Fertilize twice a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer into the water while watering. Use half the recommended strength. Fertilize in the spring and summer months but let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the Philodendron Birkin, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.) Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix. A mix of 3 cups of potting soil, 2 cups of coconut coir, 4 cups of bark, 1 cup of perlite, and 1/4 cup of horticultural charcoal is perfect for this aroid. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit for an hour. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim them off with sterile pruners. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more mix. Let the plant drain in the grower pot before setting them into a cachet pot without drainage.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, shower the Philodendron Birkin from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled, or tap water sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any brown leaves with sterile scissors and remove any debris from the soil. Replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time.

To propagate this Philodendron Birkin plant, take a stem cutting in the early spring. Remove the bottom leaves up 2-3 inches to expose the stem. Place the stem in a glass jar and fill with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week. After the roots are several months old, add to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and place them medium to bright light.

Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Prefers humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Outside: Keep in shade on a patio where nights are above 60°F.

Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month during the growing season.

When receiving the Variegated Rubber Tree plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining potting mix half and half with a cacti and succulent potting mix to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add the soil mix to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, loosen the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

To prune these Rubber Tree plants, wear gloves to avoid skin irritation and use sharp, sterilized pruners. The best time to prune is in late spring or early summer. Cut right above the node (where leaves are attached to the stem), causing branching to occur for a bushier plant. Don't remove more than one-third of the plant's foliage to keep them healthy.

Take a stem cutting with sanitized pruners, 6-8 inches long with leaves attached. Trim off the bottom leaves on the stem.

Dip the stem in water, then rooting hormone. Stick the stem into the soil mix.

Use a pot with drainage and place the stem 1-2 inches down into the damp, well-draining, moist mixture of cacti and succulent soil and regular potting mix with perlite in equal parts.

Tamp down around the stem to secure. Place a clear plastic bag over the cutting to mimic a greenhouse and mist the bag.

Set in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure. Remove the plastic bag but maintain adequate humidity around the new plant.

This plant loves low to medium indirect light.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Pothos love high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Pothos grows their best when temperatures are between 70°-90°F.

Outside: Grow in full sun (6-8 hours) to partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Golden Pothos prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize every two to three months during their growing period in the spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball.

Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles: Shower them from above. Fill a watering-can with filtered, distilled, or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours and is free of chemicals (chlorine or fluoride). Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any yellow leaves with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time. Prune the vines up to 2 inches from the soil line to create lushness at the top. As they spills over the rim of the container, trim to maintain their shape and size at your preference. Remove any dried or discolored leaves to keep the plant vigorous.

Stem Cutting: In early spring, take a pothos cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 5-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours.

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Division: Divide the Golden Pothos in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and cut through the roots with a sharp knife or pruners. Repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix. Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the roots at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom if necessary. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight and water. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.

This plant prefers low to medium levels of indirect sunlight.

Water well, but make sure the soil doesn't become soggy.

Does well with moderate humidity.

Spider plants will endure temperatures as low as 35°F without injury, but temperatures below 65°F retard growth. Temperatures above 90°F will not immediately damage the plant but raise the transpiration rate and increase the uptake of potentially toxic micronutrients.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce fertilizing during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. If brown tips form, withdraw from fertilizing. Raise the humidity around them and never use chlorinated or fluoride in the water.

Repot the Spider Plant in the early spring in a well draining soil mix. Use a container with drainage holes. Add a piece of screen to keep the soil from spilling out but allowing drainage. Water the plant ahead of time to hydrate. Add the mix to the bottom of the new slightly larger container. Tease the roots if they are root bound in the pot. Carefully place them in the center, adding backfill around the edges. Leave a 1/2 inch of space between the soil and the top edge to prevent water spillage. Water thoroughly and let drain.

If foliage needs a trim back, use sterilized scissors. Cut back to the base of the stem and the spiderettes. Trim off any blackened or brown tips to keep energy going to the main plant. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased leaves and clean debris from soil. Replenish soil as needed.

Remove a spiderette from the mother plant. Dip the end where the leaves originate into rooting hormone powder. Place in dampened soil. Cover the spiderettes with a clear, plastic bag and mist. Check soil moisture periodically. Within six weeks, the roots should be getting established. Place in bright to medium, indirect light and follow care instructions.

Medium indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Enjoys being kept on the dry side. Water well then let dry out.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in consistent temperatures. Avoid drafts, heat or air vent outlets and windows and doors.

Outside: Grow in dappled shade in morning sun where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Dracaena Collection black leaf enjoys bright, indirect light.

This indoor plant doesn't need much food, so twice a year is sufficient for their nutrient needs. Water one day before fertilizing. Fertilize once every six months by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give them a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any brown leaf tips that may appear with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time.

In the spring or summer, prune 3-4 inch stem cuttings from the parent plant. New shoots will break forth from the tip and sides. Mark on the stem, which is the top and base.

Set the stems in a jar filled with filtered, tap, or rainwater and replace the water twice a week. After several weeks, you'll notice roots bursting through nodules on the bottom of the stem and swelling offshoots emerging through the upper parts of the stem.

Once there is a sufficient root system, dip the ends in root hormone (mixed in water at a paste consistency) and place in damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem to secure.

Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the stem at least 1-2 inches down into the soil.

Set in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure.

Can live in low light but performs better when exposed to medium light and also brings out the leaf color. Direct sun will burn leaves.

Water when you receive them. Enjoys being kept on the moist side but not soggy. Water well and then allow the soil to dry out.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 65°F-95°F and avoid cold drafts below 50°F.

Outside: Keep them in part shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 50°F.

Apply at half-strength a liquid fertilizer especially formulated with a higher nitrogen formulation ( 24-8-16 or 20-10-20 N-P-K formulation) every two month during the growing season between early spring and fall. A slow release fertilizer can be used as a top dressing instead of a liquid fertilizer.

When receiving the Hawaiian Ti plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.)

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Hawaiian Ti plant, it's an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. If they are getting leggy, prune back the plant to a foot above the soil. Branching will occur and encourage a bushier and fuller plant. Use these cuttings to propagate. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the Ti plant in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your plant in the decorative container.

In the spring or summer, take a stem cutting between 6-8 inches long with leaves attached using sanitized pruners.

Dip the cuttings in water, then in a rooting hormone.

Use a pot with drainage. and place the stem 1-2 inches down into the damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem securing them.

Set them in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure.

Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Doesn't prefer humidity, but they can tolerate it.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 60°F-75°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 55°F.

Outside: Keep them in dappled shade (early morning sun) to full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F.

Fertilize sparingly in the spring and summer apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants and let the rest of the year.

When receiving the Snake plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. They like to be a bit root-bound. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a succulent soilless potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Use a well-draining cacti and succulent potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add cacti and succulent soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the roots. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give them a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.

Trim off discolored spots with a sterile knife. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time.

Cut a leaf off at the base and place them in a container tall enough to hold the leaf upright. Add about an inch of water at the bottom and change the water weekly. Keep the leaf in medium indirect sunlight while they are beginning to form roots. Once roots are at least 1-2 inches long, plant them with rooting hormone mixed into the well-draining succulent and cacti mix. Water and place in bright to medium, indirect light. Use a wooden dowel to train them to stand upright until the roots are more anchored and secure.