Full direct sun outside (6-8 hrs.) Indoors bright direct sun.

When the soil dries out thoroughly use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes.

Indoors: This plant is use to being in a coastal environment so maintain the humidity levels to 45-55%.

Rosemary prefers average cooler temperatures indoors at 60-65°F with good air circulation to avoid mildew and mold spores. A light fan may be used to circulate the air.

Outdoors in full sun (6-8 hours), where nights are above 10°F.

Rosemary needs a light fertilization with a slow-release fertilizer or liquid fertilizer diluted. Refrain from fertilizing eight weeks prior to the first frost date in your hardiness zone. 

Indoors: 

When the plant is rootbound or there is dieback on their growth, then they are ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter. 

Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. 

Lift the plant and inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling and trim away 10-20% of the root mass. Trim up the side of the root ball so new roots will form. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. 

Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles.

Outdoors: 

Before planting or repotting in a container, water the plant in the grower pot well. 

Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. 

Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise them above the soil level for good drainage. 

Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold. 

Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container.

Place the plant in the center of the hole. 

Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink.

Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one third to one half (if the native soil is clay). 

Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture. Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container. 

Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. 

Water lightly. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.

Throughout the spring and summer months outdoors, use pruning shears to trim back browning leaves or damaged stems on the plant. Never prune back to the older woody stem as they will not grow back. Clean the soil of debris around the base of the plant and replenish the soil as needed. Inspect for pests or diseases and treat. When pruning for culinary uses, take off no more than 5 inches of leaves. During colder months, a hard pruning (when the plant is dormant) to about half to maintain their size is permissible as long as they are not pruned back to where there are no leaves.

To propagate rosemary, prune with sterile scissors, a 4-5 inch stem of new growth from the shrub's tips. Remove 2-3 inches of the leaves off the stem and place in fresh, filtered water in a bright warm place to root in approximately six weeks. Change the water each week to keep fresh. Once the roots are well grown, pot them into a cactus potting mix with a rooting hormone to help avoid transplant shock. Place the newly transplanted rosemary into a bright, indirect light to help the roots establish in its new home. Keep the soil mix moist for new growth to start. Do not remove more than 1//3 of the plant at a time when harvesting.

Plant this herb in full sun (6-8 hours) to part sun (4-6 hours) with afternoon shade.

Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy.

This herb is used to average humidity climates similar to the Mediterranean.

This herb needs afternoon shade and a drop in the temperatures at night.

This is a biennial culinary herb and only spreads by seed—therefore, plant in consecutive years.

Apply a balanced fertilizer around the base of the plant in every six weeks during the growing season.

To transplant into a garden container or the garden bed, water your plant the night before. Dig the hole twice as wide as the grower pot and the same depth as the grower pot (not deeper). Remove the plant and center in the spot. Add rooting hormone around the roots of the plant. Water in the hole and let drain. If you have clay soils, add composted leaves, to enhance the soil consistency. Check to ensure your pH levels are between 5.5-6.7 with our 3 in1 plant meter. Fill around the plant and up to the top of its soil line. Tamp down with your hands to remove any air pockets. Water again around the drip line.

To harvest, trim stems around the outer edges. Trimming will promote more growth.

Since Italian Parsley is a biennial, you will need to plant him for two consecutive years to harvest each year. To extract the seeds, the plant flowers and dries first. Trim the Parsley with the seed heads and place into a bag to lightly remove the seeds. Dry the seeds in a warm place by turning them daily on a paper plate or towel for two weeks. Label and store in an envelope and place in an unused refrigerator for up to three years. To plant, use well-draining soil with rich nutrients and compost. The pH should be between 6-7. Use our 3 in 1 plant meter to test the pH. Soak the seeds in warm, soapy water for an hour. This procedure will break the outer layer of the seeds and help them germinate faster. Afterward, rinse the seeds in a colander with warm running water to remove the soap. Place the seeds in a warm bowl of water to soak overnight to help with germination. Then strain and place on wax paper to dry completely before planting. Prepare seed trays with well-draining moist soil for seedlings. Start this process 2-4 months before the last frost date in your area. Plant the seeds in 1/2 inch of soil and 12 inches apart if growing outside. Once the plant has germinated at around 70°F, let it grow to 3 inches before transplanting into the garden. Keep the seedlings in bright light or under grow lights to germinate.

This plant enjoys areas of full sun (6-8 hours). 

Keep your basil consistently moist in well-draining soil to ensure a good crop. Do not let it get heat stressed, or it will wilt and damage the leaves. 

Medium humidity at 50% or above will give this plant longevity and keep the soil more moist.

Add humidity around this plant to protect the leaves from wilting and getting heat stress. Temps below 40°F will destroy this plant.

Apply your fertilizer every six weeks around the drip edge of the plant or sprinkle some rich compost around the area. Container garden: If growing in a container, fertilize monthly with an organic balanced fertilizer. 

Prune the plant slightly above two sets of leaves with sterile sharp scissors. (Do not pinch or tear the stems or this could lead to disease and a bigger wound.) Count up from the bottom and go up at least three sets before pruning. 

Cut tender, young stems with at least four nodes (where the leaves grow). Cut the stem 1/4 " below the bottom node. 
Remove the lower leaves, place the cuttings in water jars, and fill up to 1-2 inches of the stem. 
Change the water every 4-5 days. 
Once the roots are three to four inches long, the cuttings are now ready to be planted. 
Fill the containers with potting soil to about 2/3 full. Take the cuttings out of the jar and plant them into the well-draining potting mix. Cover the roots with more soil until it fills up the pot. Carefully pat them down to make them secure, and water them. 
Over the next 1-2 weeks, keep the pots consistently moist and place them in a bright area out of direct sunlight. 

Plant this herb in full sun (6-8 hours) to part sun (4-6 hours).

Keep the soil consistently moist but not soggy until he gets established and then let dry between deep waterings.

This herb is used to average humidity climates similar to the Mediterranean.

Give this herb afternoon shade.

The herb likes a more Mediterranean climate.

To transplant into a garden container or the garden bed, water your plant the night before. Dig the hole twice as wide as the grower pot and the same depth as the grower pot (not deeper). Remove the plant and center in the spot. Add rooting hormone around the roots of the plant. Water in the hole and let drain. If you have clay soils, add composted leaves, to enhance the soil consistency. Fill around the plant and up to the top of its soil line. Tamp down with your hands to remove any air pockets. Water again around the drip line.

Prune any signs of flowers to alleviate bolting. Harvest leaves early in the morning and eat while fresh. When harvesting, use pruners and cut a stem above existing leaves to promote ongoing growth. Prune old growth out at the end of the season or the stems will become more woody and the leaves will turn bitter.

Stem cutting: To propagate, prune 4-6 inch stem cuttings with no buds or bloom from the parent plant. Remove leaves on 1/3 of the bottom half of the stem with pruners. (Do not tear off.) Dip the ends in root hormone (mixed in water at a paste consistency) and place 1-2 inches down in damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem to secure it. Use a 2-3 inch container with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Mist inside a clear plastic bag to create moisture and humidity and place the bag over the top of the plantings loosely. There is no need to tie off the bag but allow a little airflow under and into the planting pot. Set it in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to the soil (not the leaves) while the roots establish. After 4-6 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots establish after new growth begins. Transplant to the garden after the roots are mature.