Enjoys medium to high indirect light.

Water when received, allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.

Apply a liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants. Apply during the spring, summer and fall season. Let them rest during the winter.

When receiving the Dieffenbachia, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.)

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow them to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.

To shape your Umbrella tree, use pruners and cut right above the leaves. From here, the stem will fork and create two branches and produce more growth. Remove any dead, damaged, or diseased leaves. Remove dropped leaves on the soil surface and replenish the soil if needed.

To keep your Dieffenbachia from growing leggy, prune each quarter. Remove top growth to encourage your plant to stay more compact and bushy. If your Dieffenbachia has become too leggy, then cut back on the stalk to where you want them to begin to put on new growth and stay more compact. Do not remove more than one-third of the entire plant at one time, or this will cause too much stress and hinder their health. Look for any pests or diseases. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if necessary.

To propagate this plant during the growing season, take a stem cutting in the early spring. Use a knife or sharp pruners, cut below a node where there are at least three leaves. Find a place in the plant where there are still stalks on either side with leaves so they will have a chance to generate new leaves. Place the stem in a glass jar and fill with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week. After the roots are several months old, add to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and give them the bright, indirect lighting requirements.

Soil propagation includes dipping the cutting in hormone stimulator and placing in prepared rich, well-draining, moist (but not soggy) soil with plenty of aeration. Keep the soil moist for approximately four weeks until roots begin to grow. You can tug slightly on the stalk to see if roots are grabbing and holding after this time. Provide them bright, indirect light to acquire the photosynthesis for growth to occur.

Remove the plant from the pot. Hold the base and turn upside down with your palm securely holding the plant. Gingerly pull the pot off the root base. Remove the soil around the plant so the individual stalks can be separated. Use a chopstick to help wedge between the stalks and separate. Carefully separate all the roots to their individual stalks. Repot each in new well-draining aerated soil. Use a smaller pot for each stalk carefully not using a bigger pot may be harder to regulate their watering needs. Fill with soil, leaving an inch below the soil edge to eliminate water spillage. Water and let drain well.

This plant loves low to medium indirect light.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Pothos love high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Pothos grows their best when temperatures are between 70°-90°F.

Outside: Grow in full sun (6-8 hours) to partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Golden Pothos prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize every two to three months during their growing period in the spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball.

Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles: Shower them from above. Fill a watering-can with filtered, distilled, or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours and is free of chemicals (chlorine or fluoride). Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any yellow leaves with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time. Prune the vines up to 2 inches from the soil line to create lushness at the top. As they spills over the rim of the container, trim to maintain their shape and size at your preference. Remove any dried or discolored leaves to keep the plant vigorous.

Stem Cutting: In early spring, take a pothos cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 5-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours.

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Division: Divide the Golden Pothos in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and cut through the roots with a sharp knife or pruners. Repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix. Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the roots at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom if necessary. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight and water. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.

Grows best in bright, direct sunlight.

Water well when received, then allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Doesn't require any additional humidity.

Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.

Outside: Keep them in part shade (morning sun) on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.

Apply a liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants. Apply bimonthly during the spring, summer and fall season. Slow down the fertilizing to once a month in the winter.

When receiving the Bird of Paradise plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little root bound anyway. 

Repot in the spring, using a 2"" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) 

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1"" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.   

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

At any time of the year, remove any dead, damaged, or spent blooms to keep your plant in good health. Manage the size of the Bird of Paradise plant with hard pruning in early spring. Use sharp loppers or hand pruners and cut back leaves and stems that need thinning down to the ground. If any dead flowers are on the plant, cut the stem down to the plant's base. Remove any old, browning vegetation and clear up any debris around their base.

To clean the leaves:

Place the plant in a shower or tub.

Use a watering container with a shower head attachment.

Fill the watering can with filtered, bottled, or water that's free of chemicals and shower the plant's leaves to wash off any debris and dust.

Let them drip dry and place back into their decorative container.

Propagate your Bird of Paradise when repotting your plant. Hydrate the night before to help prevent severe transplant shock. Remove the plant from the pot and dust off the soil to reveal the rhizomes and root system. Use a sterilized knife to sever the right root system. Remove a rhizome with attached roots by cutting apart. Sprinkle root hormone over the cuts and place in the moist, well-draining planting mix. Keep the soil evenly wet but not soggy. Do not let the soil dry out

Medium to bright indirect light.

Keep the soil moist consistently (but not soggy).

Spritz daily

This plant loves heat and humidity so the warmer the better. Keep away from heating vents or direct sunlight though as the leaves could burn.

Outdoors in part sun (4-6 hours), where nights are above 40°F.

Interior: Feed the Cat Palm monthly in the spring and summer months and reduce to once or twice during the fall and winter months. :: Exterior: Apply fertilizer around the drip line of the plant and follow manufacturer's directions for use. Apply in three times a year in the spring, summer and fall.

Repotting details

Cat Palms like to be rootbound, so don't repot until the roots grow out of the pot's holes. When the plant is rootbound and ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter.

Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining with good aeration. You may add peat moss to the soil to keep them light.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root clump.

Lift the plant and inspect the root clump. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles.

After transplanting, the Cat Palm may experience some transplant shock after the process. Allow the palm to rest during this time in a partial shady area if outdoors or bright, indirect light when indoors.

Keep them well-watered and add humidity around them as they are getting established.

Outdoors:

Before planting or repotting in a container, water the plant in the grower pot well and let drain.

Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.

Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise them above the soil level for good drainage.

Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold.

Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink.

Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one third to one half (if the native soil is clay).

Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture.

Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container.

Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water and keep consistently moist but not soggy. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.

Keep yellowing or browning fronds cut off. If tips get burned, trim off the edges at an angle so they looks more natural. Keep the soil clean and replenish with soil if depleted.

Divide your palm by dividing the established plant. Remove the clump from the container after watering to help loosen the soil. Wash off the soil and gently brush away the soil from their roots. Identify where the stalks are attached to the roots. Take a sharp, sterilized garden knife and split the clump in half or thirds. Keep the knife disinfected as cuts are made throughout the root system to avoid spreading diseases.

You can also remove suckers that grow straight upward from the root ball. Loosen the soil away from the roots and separate the sucker from the mother plant. If needed, cut the roots away from the clump carefully. Follow our potting instructions to keep your new baby plant happy!

Indoors: Bright, indirect light Outdoors: Morning part shade (4-6 hours)

Keep the soil consistently moist (but not soggy). Let them dry between waterings on the top 1-2 inches of the soil.

Keep high humidity around them at an average of 65-80%. Add a gravel tray, or use a humidifier or group with other plants. Don't spritz as it can cause foliar disease.

The Elephant Ear 'Regal Shields' grows in their original environment at warm temperatures. Keep them away from any cold drafts or heating and air vents.

Take inside where temperatures fall below 59°F.

Add a balanced liquid fertilizer at a quarter strength when watering indoors during the growing season between spring and summer. Give them a rest during the winter months.

Indoors:

Repot the Alocasia Regal Shields when the plant is rootbound (more roots than soil) in early spring before growth starts.

Hydrate the plant in the pot before transplanting or dividing and let rest for an hour.

Plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter.

Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining mixed with a third cactus mix for good drainage. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball.

Lift the plant and inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, untangle the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Trim up the side of the root ball so new roots will form.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage.

Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles.

Outdoors:

Before planting or repotting in a container, water the plant in the grower pot well.

Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 4-8 hours of direct sunlight each day.

Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise it above the soil level for good drainage.

Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold.

Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container.

Place the plant in the center of the hole.

Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink.

Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one-third to one-half (if the native soil is clay).

Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture. Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container.

Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant.

Water lightly. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.

To clean the leaves, put in a sink, and use filtered water in a watering container to shower over the leaves to knock the dust off. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil. At this time, keep a lookout for pests and treat or remove them. Refreshen soil mixture if needed.

Prune away dead, damaged, or diseased leaves down to the stem base with sterile pruners. Maintain the long vines as a full and bushy vine by trimming every few months or leave them to grow longer. As they thin out on the stem, trim back. Use the cuttings to propagate more plants!

Take stem cuttings from the parent plant. Cut with sterile scissors below the leaf node with at least two joints. Dip in rooting hormone and place it in moist soilless potting soil. Cover with a clear plastic bag to retain moisture and humidity while they root. Keep the cutting in warm, medium to bright indirect light. After three weeks, check the rooting of the baby cutting by pulling gently on the leaf. If it's snug, then roots are forming. Keep them covered until new growth appears. Remove the clear bag at this point and keep moist and humidity levels high while it matures.

Alternatively, place root cuttings in a container with water and maintain indoor temperatures at 65° to 72° F. Change the water weekly as the roots form to eliminate bacteria from forming. The cuttings will root within a four to eight week time period. Once there is a significant root mass of 3-4 inches, transplant into a container mix in a 4-6" pot.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Avoid cold drafts under 50°F and no hotter than 95°F during the day.

Outside: Grow in early morning sun (2-4 hours) where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: The Fiddle Leaf Fig prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize once a month during the growing spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Note: If your Fiddle Leaf Fig has outgrown their space inside, cut back the roots by 20% to stunt their growth and add new potting soil to the existing container.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Gently wipe clean with a soft, damp cloth or paper towel. Work gently from the stem's base toward the leaf's tip, cleaning both sides at once. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil.

Refreshen the soil mixture if needed.

Prune away damaged or diseased leaves down to the stem base with sterile scissors. To prune the Fiddle Leaf Fig, cut between two nodes (where the leaves emerge from the stem). Here the plant will stimulate new growth and branch into two stems, and form young leaves making the fig bushier. Use the pruned stems for propagation.

Take a cutting between two nodes (where the leaves emerge from the stem) with several leaves on the cutting.

Cut the leaves in half in order.

Place the cuttings in a clean glass jar filled with filtered or bottled water and place in a bright, indirect light spot. Change the water each week. After several weeks, white spots will begin to appear on the stem and after approximately 6-8 weeks, roots will emerge.

Use a pot with drainage. and place the roots and stem in damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem to secure.

Place the stem at least 1-2 inches down into the soil. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure.