Enjoys medium to bright indirect light.

Be sure to water when you receive them. Allow soil to dry between watering.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 60°F-75°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 55°F. They thrive in warmer and humid temperatures with plenty of humidity.

Outside: Keep in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F.

When receiving the Baby Rubber Plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.)

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Rubber Tree plant, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. When pruning, use clean, sharp pruners. Cut above a node or where the leaves emerge on the side of the stem. Branching will occur and encourage a bushier and fuller plant. Use these cuttings to propagate. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed.

To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the Rubber Tree plant in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your plant in the decorative container.

To propagate this plant during the growing season:

Take a 4-6 inch stem cutting in the early spring.

Use a knife or sharp pruners, cut below a node where there are at least three leaves.

Remove the bottom leaves to expose the node.

Place the stem in a glass jar and fill it with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week.

After the roots are six weeks old, add the cuttings to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and give them bright, indirect lighting.

To propagate this plant by division during the growing season:

Water your plant the night before dividing.

Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If they are root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.

Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.

Divide each clump into their pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for their roots to grow.

Plant in well-draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set them in medium, indirect sunlight.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.

Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while they recover. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Let the soil dry between waterings.

No extra humidity required.

Keep this plant consistently in warm temperatures inside with nighttime temperatures decreasing to only 60°F-70°F.

Outside: Grow in dappled shade in morning sun where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: The Chinese Money Plant enjoys medium to bright, indirect light.

Water the Chinese Money Plant one day prior to fertilizing. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or a cacti and succulent mix. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.

In early spring, take a pilea cutting, use a sharp knife to cut off pinkish red baby offshoots from the main stem.  Remove at least an inch of stalk under the soil leading to the main stem. Be careful not to catch the knife of the healthy leaves on the mother plant. 

If there is no root ball, remove all the soil and place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled or tap water that has been sitting at least 24 hours. 

If there is a root ball, then separate the mother plant from the babies and pot up. Follow the instructions below.*

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has well formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. 

*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it difficult to regulate watering needs) using indoor well-draining potting mix such as cacti and succulent mix. 

Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it. 

Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should be established.

This plant enjoys bright to medium indirect light.

Keep the soil slightly moist and water when the soil reaches a #5 on the moisture meter. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let the roots sit in standing water. During winter months, water less frequently but keep it humid around the plant.

Add up to 60% humidity by adding a pebble tray filled with water, grouping with other plants or using a humidifier.

Avoid any sudden temperature changes. Keep humidity high in warmer temperatures.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F. Indoors: The Rattlesnake Plant prefers bright to medium, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize monthly during its growing period. Use a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer at half strength to increase foliage health. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in its dormant phase. Flush the soil periodically to eliminate salts from fertilizing.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Enclose the new plantings in plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Indoors: Propagate and divide Zebra plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set it in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Enclose the new plantings in clear plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. You can remove the clear plastic bag at this time but still maintain high humidity around the plant. Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Water with filtered or rain water at soil level.

Prefers medium levels of indirect light.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts below 50°F or it could slow their growth.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 50°F.

Apply a slow release fertilizer to the soil surface and as you water, the nutrients will release. Replenish as needed. Follow this fertilizing in the spring and summer months and slow down during the fall and winter time.

When receiving the Neanthe Bella Palm, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining potting soil amended with perlite and rooting hormone to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, and if settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your palm, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. If tips of the leaves are browning, trim the ends off to help the plant regain strength. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.

To propagate your Neanthe Bella Palm:

Water your plant the night before dividing.

Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If it is root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.

Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.

Ensure you have several healthy stalks and leaves attached to the clumps.

Divide each clump into its pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for its roots to grow.

Plant in well draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set it in medium, indirect sunlight.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.

Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while it recovers. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Avoid any sudden temperature changes. Keep humidity high in warmer temperatures.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix.

Water your plant in the old pot and let sit an hour before transferring. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Enclose the new plantings in plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as they acclimates to their new environment. They may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as they regains their energy and gets rooted into the soil over time.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Indoors: Propagate and divide Peacock plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix or African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Water with filtered or rain water at soil level.

Enjoys medium to bright indirect light.

Allow 50% of the top soil dry out between waterings. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Bottom water this plant as the leaves create a mound and make them hard to water and reach the soil overhead.

Enjoys medium to high humidity. Do not mist the foliage but add a pebble tray and cover them with a vented garden cloche dome.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 65°F-75°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 60°F. They thrive in warmer and humid temperatures with plenty of humidity.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 65°F.

Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer specially formulated for indoor plants during the growing season and let them rest in the winter.

When receiving the Peperomia Frost plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.) Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Add a combination of 1/2 potting mix and 1/2 succulent and cactus mix to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil mix and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Peperomia Frost plant, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. When pruning, use clean, sharp pruners. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves: Use a small makeup brush to dust the leaves delicately. Avoid showering the leaves to avoid rotting the center mound.

To propagate this plant during the growing season: Take a 2-3 inch stem cutting in the early spring. Place the stem in a glass jar and fill it with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week. After the roots are six weeks old, add the cuttings to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and give them the bright, indirect lighting requirements. Cover them with a clear plastic bag or a vented garden cloche dome to provide humidity. To propagate this plant by division during the growing season: Water your plant the night before dividing. Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If they is root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil. Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots. Divide each clump into their pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for their roots to grow. Plant in well-draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set them in medium, indirect sunlight. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting. Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while they recover. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Enjoys full sun or partial shade outside, or bright light inside.

Water well when received, then allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Doesn't require high levels of humidity.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 70°F-80°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 50°F.

Outside: Keep them in full sun (6-8 hours) on a patio where nights are above 50°F.

Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month.

When receiving the Ponytail Palm, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.) We suggest using a taller container so the pretty tips of the leaves can dangle over the edges without hitting the table surface.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining interior potting (cacti and succulent) soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, loosen the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil but do not cover the trunk above the surface.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Ponytail Palm, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves or tips. When pruning, use clean, sharp pruners. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed.

To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the Ponytail Palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, to clear off dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your plant in the decorative container.

To propagate a Ponytail Palm divide the shoots from the parent plant. This is best done in the Spring. Water the plant to hydrate the plant the night before. Remove the soil around the trunk of the plant and base of the shoots. Dig deep to ensure the shoots have established enough roots to divide. The shoots or pups should be at least five inches tall. Do not disturb the mother plant.

Using a sharp knife to cut the shoot while keeping in tack the detached portions fibrous roots. Repair and add soil around the parent plant.

Plant the offshoot into a well-draining soilless mix such as a succulent and cacti mix or a sand-based potting soil. Amend the mix with a rooting hormone to help prevent transplant shock. Use a container two inches wider than the root base. Place the new plant so the top layer of soil is an inch below the top edge of the container to prevent water spillage.

Water well after securing the soil around the roots. Place a clear, plastic bag over the planter to keep humidity high and mist the inside of the bag. Place the planter in a warm, bright to moderate indirect light to root. Water approximately every two weeks and keep misting the plant and soil surface as they establishe. After the roots establish, the plastic can be removed.

Enjoys full sun

Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water  enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes.  Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot.  

Requires no extra humidity

Keep this plant in a greenhouse where the temperature is a comfortable 65°F-80°F and avoid cold drafts below 40°F.

Outside: Keep it in full sun (6-8 hours) on a patio where nights are above 40°F.

Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants twice per month during the growing season between April and August.   A slow release balanced fertilizer can be used as a top dressing instead of a liquid fertilizer. Avoid contact with the leaves to prevent leaf burn. Wash off the leaves if any fertilizer splashes onto them.

When receiving the Olive plant, give it a few weeks to acclimate to the environment before planting it in the ground. Dig the hole twice as wide and only the depth of the grower pot. Add a rooting hormone to the native soil mix. If you have compacted soil, consider adding some compost to the native mix for better aeration. Place the plant in the middle of the hole and water. Let drain and then fill with the native soil and compost. Water again and pack down around the roots.

If planting into a container, repot using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a succulent or cacti indoor potting mix with perlite to help drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring and let it sit for an hour. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim them off with sterile pruners. Cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling if the plant is rootbound. Ensure the plant sits about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Let the water drain thoroughly between the waterings.

Prune your olive plant in late spring and early summer. Prune its branches to keep it an attractive appearance. Use sterilized and sharp hand pruners to cut the stem at a 45° angle, 1/4-inch above where a leaf attaches to a limb.

In the growing season, hydrate the plant the night before taking cuttings. Take a young stem cutting between 4-6 inches long with several sets of leaves attached. Make the cut 1/4-inch below one of the sets of leaves.
Remove the lower leaves to expose the nodes (the spot where the leaves were attached)
Dip the end of the cuttings in water, then in a rooting hormone.
Use a pot with drainage. and place the stem 1-2 inches down into the damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix amended with perlite. Tamp down around the stem securing it.
Place a clear plastic bag over the cutting to mimic a greenhouse and mist the bag. Set it in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure. Cut a slit in the plastic bag and continue to keep the plant's soil damp until rooting has developed. This will help acclimate the plant to normal humidity levels.
Once the roots are secure, transplant to its new home and place it in bright, indirect sunlight and water it each week, providing it necessary temperatures and humidity.

Medium to bright indirect light.

Keep the soil moist consistently (but not soggy).

Spritz daily

This plant loves heat and humidity so the warmer the better. Keep away from heating vents or direct sunlight though as the leaves could burn.

Outdoors in part sun (4-6 hours), where nights are above 40°F.

Interior: Feed the Cat Palm monthly in the spring and summer months and reduce to once or twice during the fall and winter months. :: Exterior: Apply fertilizer around the drip line of the plant and follow manufacturer's directions for use. Apply in three times a year in the spring, summer and fall.

Repotting details

Cat Palms like to be rootbound, so don't repot until the roots grow out of the pot's holes. When the plant is rootbound and ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter.

Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining with good aeration. You may add peat moss to the soil to keep them light.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root clump.

Lift the plant and inspect the root clump. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles.

After transplanting, the Cat Palm may experience some transplant shock after the process. Allow the palm to rest during this time in a partial shady area if outdoors or bright, indirect light when indoors.

Keep them well-watered and add humidity around them as they are getting established.

Outdoors:

Before planting or repotting in a container, water the plant in the grower pot well and let drain.

Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.

Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise them above the soil level for good drainage.

Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold.

Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink.

Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one third to one half (if the native soil is clay).

Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture.

Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container.

Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water and keep consistently moist but not soggy. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.

Keep yellowing or browning fronds cut off. If tips get burned, trim off the edges at an angle so they looks more natural. Keep the soil clean and replenish with soil if depleted.

Divide your palm by dividing the established plant. Remove the clump from the container after watering to help loosen the soil. Wash off the soil and gently brush away the soil from their roots. Identify where the stalks are attached to the roots. Take a sharp, sterilized garden knife and split the clump in half or thirds. Keep the knife disinfected as cuts are made throughout the root system to avoid spreading diseases.

You can also remove suckers that grow straight upward from the root ball. Loosen the soil away from the roots and separate the sucker from the mother plant. If needed, cut the roots away from the clump carefully. Follow our potting instructions to keep your new baby plant happy!

Prefers medium levels of indirect light.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in warmer temperatures and avoid drastic changes in temperature.

This plant likes warmer temperatures and can be acclimated to part shade to full sun over time. Bring in when temperatures dip below 35°F.

Add a time-release fertilizer to the top of the soil in the spring. This will be sufficient throughout the season. Do not fertilize in the fall and winter months.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately. Wait at least 6-12 months, or until the roots begin to crowd and grow through the drainage holes.

This plant likes to be a little snug in its pot so there is no reason to repot initially. If the soil is aged, repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or use a palm soil mix.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow water to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball.

Be aware that the roots are brittle, so carefully remove as much soil around the roots as possible to replace the aged soil and fertilizer deposits.

Very carefully lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Remove any dead fronds down to the base of the plant. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil when needed.

This plant is hard to propagate. We recommend getting a small plant to nurture!

The Cast Iron Plant can thrive in low to medium light conditions. It is perfect for dimly lit rooms or offices, but it can also adapt to brighter, indirect light. Avoid direct sunlight, as it can scorch the leaves.

Water the Cast Iron Plant when the top inch of soil feels dry. It is drought-tolerant, so it's better to underwater than overwater. Overwatering can lead to root rot, so ensure the plant is not sitting in water.

The Cast Iron Plant is not particularly fussy about humidity levels and can thrive in both dry and humid environments. However, it does appreciate occasional misting in particularly dry conditions.

The Cast Iron Plant prefers temperatures between 60-75°F (16-24°C). It can tolerate higher temperatures if kept out of direct sunlight and lower temperatures if protected from frost.

In USDA hardiness zones 8-11, the Cast Iron Plant can be grown outdoors year-round. In cooler climates, it should be brought indoors or grown as a houseplant to avoid frost damage.

Fertilize the Cast Iron Plant twice a year, in the spring and summer, with a balanced, water-soluble fertilizer. Avoid over-fertilizing, as this plant does not require much feeding to thrive.

Repot the Cast Iron Plant every 2-3 years or when it becomes root-bound. Choose a pot that is only slightly larger than the current one, and use a well-draining potting mix. Repotting in the spring is ideal.

To keep the leaves of the Cast Iron Plant free from dust, gently wipe them down with a damp cloth once a month. This helps the plant to photosynthesize more efficiently and keeps it looking vibrant.