Prefers medium levels of indirect light.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts below 50°F or it could slow their growth.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 50°F.

Apply a slow release fertilizer to the soil surface and as you water, the nutrients will release. Replenish as needed. Follow this fertilizing in the spring and summer months and slow down during the fall and winter time.

When receiving the Neanthe Bella Palm, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining potting soil amended with perlite and rooting hormone to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, and if settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your palm, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. If tips of the leaves are browning, trim the ends off to help the plant regain strength. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.

To propagate your Neanthe Bella Palm:

Water your plant the night before dividing.

Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If it is root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.

Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.

Ensure you have several healthy stalks and leaves attached to the clumps.

Divide each clump into its pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for its roots to grow.

Plant in well draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set it in medium, indirect sunlight.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.

Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while it recovers. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Bright indirect sunlight.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant between temperatures of 68°F-78°F indoors with plenty of humidity. They can survive a temps in the 40's and 50's but not for long.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F

Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants twice a year in the spring and summer.

When receiving the Boston Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little crowded in their pot. 

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.   

Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.

When watering your fern, it's an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. Avoid trimming the fern's top, if possible, except for the dead, damaged, or diseased parts. Instead, shape them up by cutting the side leaves from the base. Bravo! Now your fern looks like they just had a face-lift!

Propagate and divide your Boston Fern in the spring.

Hydrate the plant the night before. 

Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife.              

Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix amended with a rooting hormone.  Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached. 

Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for its roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. 

Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.

Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. 

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.

This plant prefers low to medium levels of indirect sunlight.

Water well, but make sure the soil doesn't become soggy.

Does well with moderate humidity.

Spider plants will endure temperatures as low as 35°F without injury, but temperatures below 65°F retard growth. Temperatures above 90°F will not immediately damage the plant but raise the transpiration rate and increase the uptake of potentially toxic micronutrients.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce fertilizing during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. If brown tips form, withdraw from fertilizing. Raise the humidity around them and never use chlorinated or fluoride in the water.

Repot the Spider Plant in the early spring in a well draining soil mix. Use a container with drainage holes. Add a piece of screen to keep the soil from spilling out but allowing drainage. Water the plant ahead of time to hydrate. Add the mix to the bottom of the new slightly larger container. Tease the roots if they are root bound in the pot. Carefully place them in the center, adding backfill around the edges. Leave a 1/2 inch of space between the soil and the top edge to prevent water spillage. Water thoroughly and let drain.

If foliage needs a trim back, use sterilized scissors. Cut back to the base of the stem and the spiderettes. Trim off any blackened or brown tips to keep energy going to the main plant. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased leaves and clean debris from soil. Replenish soil as needed.

Remove a spiderette from the mother plant. Dip the end where the leaves originate into rooting hormone powder. Place in dampened soil. Cover the spiderettes with a clear, plastic bag and mist. Check soil moisture periodically. Within six weeks, the roots should be getting established. Place in bright to medium, indirect light and follow care instructions.

This plant prefers bright, indirect light to promote blooming (at least 6 hours) but can also tolerate medium or artificial indoor plant lights!

Let the soil dry between waterings and check each check the moisture levels each week. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, place her into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let her roots sit in standing water. Water less frequently during the winter months but keep it humid around the plant.

Add up to 60% humidity by adding a pebble tray filled with water, grouping with other plants or using a humidifier. The higher humidity around the leaves, the less often you will need to water her!

Avoid drafts or full sun on this plant.

To keep your plant blooming, avoid cooler temperatures under 70°F. If planted outside, sit her in the shade but give her brighter, indirect light. She can tolerate a few hours of early morning light but avoid afternoon sun.

Fertilize when watering twice a month in the spring and summer with a 1/2 strenth water-soluable fertilizer high in phosphorus to encourage blooms.

Repot the Hoya pubicalyx when they are root bound in the early spring in a well draining soil mix with equal parts orchid mix, cacti and succulent mix and perlite. Bump up the diameter of your container by 2 inches and ensure it has adequate drainage holes. Add a piece of screen to keep the soil from spilling out but allowing drainage. Water the plant ahead of time to hydrate. Add the mix to the bottom of the new slightly larger container. Tease the roots if they are root bound in the pot. Carefully place it in the center, adding backfill around the edges. Leave a 1/2 inch of space between the soil and the top edge to prevent water spillage. Water thoroughly and let drain.

With sterilized pruners, trim the Hoya in the spring season to remove any dead, damaged, or diseased stems, although the leafless branches are spurs and from which flowers emerge. Avoid cutting these off to preserve the potential blooms each season.

Use sterilized pruners, remove 3-4 inches sections from the end of a stem (just below the node), and cut at an angle. Remove leaves from the lower part of the stem and let the white latex dry overnight. Dip each branch in the rooting hormone to encourage root growth. Then place several cuttings in a six-inch pot about two inches apart. Use lightweight moist growing medium of equal parts orchid mix, cacti mix, and perlite. Cover the potted plant loosely with a clear plastic bag to hold in humidity Set the baby cutting in warm bright, indirect light for several weeks. Check moisture needs and don't let the medium get dry. After the stems have grown roots and anchored, you can remove the plastic bag and start fertilizing.