Place your plant in full sun (6-8 hours).

Water each week to establish the roots but let dry out in between time. Too much watering can. lead to root rot.

This plant grows well in dryer areas.

This is a heat-loving plant.

The blooms will emerge from June-the first frost in your area.

Fertilize your annual in the spring or when planting. Discontinue fertilizing after the first frost. If it is a perennial in your area, fertilize again in late April and one more time during the growing season with a blooming fertilizer like Dyna-Grow Bloom 3-12-6

To transplant into a garden container or the garden bed, water your plant the night before. Dig the hole twice as wide as the grower pot and the same depth as the grower pot (not deeper). Remove the plant and center in the spot. Add rooting hormone around the roots of the plant. Water in the hole and let drain. If you have clay soils, add compost to enhance the soil consistency and keep it well-draining. Fill around the plant and up to the top of its soil line. Tamp down with your hands to remove any air pockets. Water again around the drip line.

After a full blooming period, trim the deadheads back for another flush of blooms.

Wait to dig up your tubers three weeks after the last hard frost when all your annuals have died. Waiting this long will help toughen the skins and help protect them against withering and rot. Trim all the blackened stalks away and remove them. (If you live in a warmer climate, trim off the stems and foliage down to the ground to start the curing process two weeks before digging.) Use a pitchfork to dig up the tubers, place it about a foot away from the central stalk, and rock it back and forth to loosen the soil around them. Go around the plant, gently lifting the clump out of the ground. Hose off the tuber clump removing all the soil from the crevices. Lay them out to air dry in a well-ventilated area above 40°F. Within 24 hours, start splitting the clusters. Remove any broken or damaged tubers, including those with broken necks. Use sharp pruners and clip apart each tuber with a strong neck and visible eyes. Each eye is where a sprout will form. Prune any hairy roots or chunks around the neck. Each tuber should have a body, eye, and strong neck. Lay them all out and let them dry for a day before they start dehydrating and shriveling. If you have several varieties, label them with a permanent marker on the body of the tuber. Sprinkle the tubers with a powder fungicide such as sulfur dust to prevent disease and rot. To store, use a plastic bin, fill the bottom with vermiculite, and lay the tubers side by side but not touching. Then pour a layer of vermiculite over them so they're all covered, and repeat until the bin is full. Drill 2-3 holes in the plastic lid to help moisture expire. Store your container in an area between 40-50°F and 85 to 95% humidity. Check your tubers monthly for any rotting or mold and remove them. If you're in a hardy USDA growing zone of 9 or above, you can leave the tubers in the ground over the winter. Then, in the spring (May in most locations after the last frost), carefully dig them up, divide the tubers and replant them in several areas in the landscape or decorative patio containers.