Two-toned leaves are on display in all of these specimens, giving you more pizazz than your ordinary green--decorator designs at nature's best. Leaf variegations occur because there is a decrease of green pigment chlorophyll in the plant cell. This phenomenon is due to cell mutation or the rearrangement of genes or chromosomes.
Easy to care for. Great starter plants!
Toxic to pets.
Grown in the USA. Native to the wetlands in Central and South America.
Great For Spaces That…
Great for spaces with higher ceilings
Great for space with room for a grouping of plants
Great for spaces with bright indirect light
Great for spaces with shelving or with an upward climbing trellis
Sansevieria species & Dracaena Care Guide
Bright, indirect light to filtered sun.
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
Enjoys moderate levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.
Will endure temperatures as low as 45°F without injury, but temperatures below 65°F retard growth. Temperatures above 90°F will not immediately damage the plant but raise the transpiration rate and increase the uptake of potentially toxic micronutrients.
Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F. Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
The Dracaena Tree doesn't need a lot of fertilizer and may become sensitive to too much salts if applied too often. Apply a liquid fertilizer at half strength especially formulated for indoor plants. Avoid using water with chemicals (chlorine or fluoride). Apply once a month during the spring, summer and fall season. Let it rest during the winter.
When receiving the Dracaena Tree do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot every 3-5 years or when the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let it sit an hour.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.
If foliage needs a trim back, use sterilized scissors. Cut back to the base of the stem.. Trim off any blackened or brown tips to keep energy going to the main plant. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased leaves and clean debris from soil. Replenish soil as needed.
Take a stem cutting with sanitized pruners 4-6 inches long with the leaves attached.
Dip the cuttings in water, then in a rooting hormone.
Use a pot with drainage. and place the stem 1-2 inches down into the damp, well-draining, moist potting soil mix and tamp down around the stem securing it.
Place a clear plastic bag over the cutting to mimic a greenhouse and mist the bag. Set it in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are secure.