Enjoys medium to bright indirect light.

Be sure to water when you receive them. Allow soil to dry between watering.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 60°F-75°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 55°F. They thrive in warmer and humid temperatures with plenty of humidity.

Outside: Keep in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F.

When receiving the Baby Rubber Plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.)

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Rubber Tree plant, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. When pruning, use clean, sharp pruners. Cut above a node or where the leaves emerge on the side of the stem. Branching will occur and encourage a bushier and fuller plant. Use these cuttings to propagate. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed.

To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the Rubber Tree plant in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your plant in the decorative container.

To propagate this plant during the growing season:

Take a 4-6 inch stem cutting in the early spring.

Use a knife or sharp pruners, cut below a node where there are at least three leaves.

Remove the bottom leaves to expose the node.

Place the stem in a glass jar and fill it with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week.

After the roots are six weeks old, add the cuttings to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and give them bright, indirect lighting.

To propagate this plant by division during the growing season:

Water your plant the night before dividing.

Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If they are root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.

Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.

Divide each clump into their pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for their roots to grow.

Plant in well-draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set them in medium, indirect sunlight.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.

Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while they recover. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Let the soil dry between waterings.

No extra humidity required.

Keep this plant consistently in warm temperatures inside with nighttime temperatures decreasing to only 60°F-70°F.

Outside: Grow in dappled shade in morning sun where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: The Chinese Money Plant enjoys medium to bright, indirect light.

Water the Chinese Money Plant one day prior to fertilizing. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or a cacti and succulent mix. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.

In early spring, take a pilea cutting, use a sharp knife to cut off pinkish red baby offshoots from the main stem.  Remove at least an inch of stalk under the soil leading to the main stem. Be careful not to catch the knife of the healthy leaves on the mother plant. 

If there is no root ball, remove all the soil and place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled or tap water that has been sitting at least 24 hours. 

If there is a root ball, then separate the mother plant from the babies and pot up. Follow the instructions below.*

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has well formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. 

*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it difficult to regulate watering needs) using indoor well-draining potting mix such as cacti and succulent mix. 

Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it. 

Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should be established.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Avoid any sudden temperature changes. Keep humidity high in warmer temperatures.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix.

Water your plant in the old pot and let sit an hour before transferring. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Enclose the new plantings in plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as they acclimates to their new environment. They may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as they regains their energy and gets rooted into the soil over time.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Indoors: Propagate and divide Peacock plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix or African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Water with filtered or rain water at soil level.

Enjoys medium to bright indirect light.

Allow 50% of the top soil dry out between waterings. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Bottom water this plant as the leaves create a mound and make them hard to water and reach the soil overhead.

Enjoys medium to high humidity. Do not mist the foliage but add a pebble tray and cover them with a vented garden cloche dome.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 65°F-75°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 60°F. They thrive in warmer and humid temperatures with plenty of humidity.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 65°F.

Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer specially formulated for indoor plants during the growing season and let them rest in the winter.

When receiving the Peperomia Frost plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.) Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Add a combination of 1/2 potting mix and 1/2 succulent and cactus mix to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil mix and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Peperomia Frost plant, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. When pruning, use clean, sharp pruners. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves: Use a small makeup brush to dust the leaves delicately. Avoid showering the leaves to avoid rotting the center mound.

To propagate this plant during the growing season: Take a 2-3 inch stem cutting in the early spring. Place the stem in a glass jar and fill it with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week. After the roots are six weeks old, add the cuttings to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and give them the bright, indirect lighting requirements. Cover them with a clear plastic bag or a vented garden cloche dome to provide humidity. To propagate this plant by division during the growing season: Water your plant the night before dividing. Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If they is root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil. Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots. Divide each clump into their pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for their roots to grow. Plant in well-draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set them in medium, indirect sunlight. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting. Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while they recover. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.