Care Level: I'm Easy
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Numbers of Plants Included In Each Jungle
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Tiny Jungle - 2 Small & 2 Medium
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Urban Jungle - 2 Small & 2 Medium & 2 Extra Large
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The Amazon - 4 Small & 4 Medium & 2 Extra Large - MOST POPULAR!
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I'm In The Jungle Book - 4 Small & 4 Medium & 4 Extra Large - BEST BANG FOR YOUR BUCK!
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Plant Care Guides
- Dypsis lutescens
- Spathiphyllum
- Philodendron 'Birkin'
- Hemionitis arifolia
- Epipremnum aureum
- Anthurium spp. - Red
- Guzmania Bromeliad
- Davallia fejeensis
- Phoenix roebelenii
- Monstera deliciosa
- Cocos nucifera
- Chamaedorea cataractarum
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LightMedium
Prefers medium levels of indirect light.
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WaterLow
Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.
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HumidityMedium
Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 55 to 75
Keep this plant in warmer temperatures and avoid drastic changes in temperature.
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Hardiness Zones10|11|12
This plant likes warmer temperatures and can be acclimated to part shade to full sun over time. Bring in when temperatures dip below 35°F.
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FertilizingMonthly
Add a time-release fertilizer to the top of the soil in the spring. This will be sufficient throughout the season. Do not fertilize in the fall and winter months.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately. Wait at least 6-12 months, or until the roots begin to crowd and grow through the drainage holes.
This plant likes to be a little snug in its pot so there is no reason to repot initially. If the soil is aged, repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or use a palm soil mix.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow water to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball.
Be aware that the roots are brittle, so carefully remove as much soil around the roots as possible to replace the aged soil and fertilizer deposits.
Very carefully lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
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CleaningMonthly
Remove any dead fronds down to the base of the plant. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil when needed.
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PropagationDivision
This plant is hard to propagate. We recommend getting a small plant to nurture!
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LightMedium
Best in medium light, but can survive in a range of low to high.
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WaterMedium
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
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HumidityMedium
Prefers humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 65 to 80
Keep this plant out of cold drafts near open windows or doors.
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Hardiness Zones10|11
Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn.
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FertilizingSeasonally
Peace lilies are not heavy feeders therefore, every six weeks is sufficient for their nutrient needs. Add a balanced liquid fertilizer to your water and dilute it by half. Fertilize throughout the late winter, early spring and summer months. Note: If your peace lily is not blooming, move them to a brighter area in the house to get indirect sun.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2"" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1"" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
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CleaningAfter bloom begins to die
Each time a flower blooms on the peace lily and turns brown, cut the stem off at the base. Prune off any yellowing leaves at the base of the stem. Clean any debris off the soil's surface. To clean, place the plant into a tub or shower. Use a watering can with a shower attachment using distilled, filtered, or water without chlorine or chemicals. Pour the water over the plant to wash away any dust. Do this each quarter to keep your plant's leaves clean.
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PropagationDivision
Propagate and divide your Peace Lily plant in the early spring.
Hydrate the plant the night before.
Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide and repot in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix, being aware that each new plant needs at least two or more leaves with sufficient roots attached.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.
Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.
Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.
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LightMedium
Bright, indirect light is the best for this plant.
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WaterMedium
Use filtered, bottled, or tap water that's sat 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, place them back into the cache or decorative pot. Avoid overwatering as it can suffer from root rot. Add water when the top several inches of soil are dry.
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HumidityHigh
High home humidity between 50-60% is best for this plant. Add a pebble tray or humidifier around it.
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Temperature 60 to 75
This plant doesn't tolerate cold temperatures. Avoid cold drafts near doors, windows and air vents.
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Hardiness Zones10
When using outdoors, this plant can handle early morning sun in partial shade or dappled light. Shade them from direct, full sun or the leaves will burn and get crispy.
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FertilizingEvery two weeks
Fertilize twice a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer into the water while watering. Use half the recommended strength. Fertilize in the spring and summer months but let the plant rest in the fall and winter.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the Philodendron Birkin, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.) Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix. A mix of 3 cups of potting soil, 2 cups of coconut coir, 4 cups of bark, 1 cup of perlite, and 1/4 cup of horticultural charcoal is perfect for this aroid. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit for an hour. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim them off with sterile pruners. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more mix. Let the plant drain in the grower pot before setting them into a cachet pot without drainage.
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CleaningMonthly
To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, shower the Philodendron Birkin from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled, or tap water sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any brown leaves with sterile scissors and remove any debris from the soil. Replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time.
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PropagationStem Cutting
To propagate this Philodendron Birkin plant, take a stem cutting in the early spring. Remove the bottom leaves up 2-3 inches to expose the stem. Place the stem in a glass jar and fill with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week. After the roots are several months old, add to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and place them medium to bright light.
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LightHigh
Indoors: Bright indirect light.
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WaterMedium
Keep your Heart fern consistently moist but not in soggy soil. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water that is sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot.
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HumidityHigh
This heart fern enjoys and thrives in 70% humidity.
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Temperature 60 to 85
Warmer room temperatures and adding a humidifier to their surroundings will help them thrive.
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Hardiness Zones11|12
This Heart Leaf fern thrives in bright indirect sunlight where temperatures are above 60°F and high humidity.
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FertilizingMonthly
Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month. Apply during the spring, summer, and fall seasons. Let them rest during the winter.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the Heart Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.
Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
Water well to dampen the soil and let them drain.
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CleaningMonthly
If the leaves on your fern dry out or become crispy, trim off the stems down to the base. Keep the base and roots moist and new fronds will form eventually. Place them on a pebble tray to keep the humidity high. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish if necessary.
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PropagationDivision
Propagate and divide your Heart Fern in the spring.
Hydrate the plant the night before.
Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife. Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached.
Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.
Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.
Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.
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LightMedium
This plant loves low to medium indirect light.
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WaterLow
Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.
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HumidityHigh
Pothos love high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 70 to 90
Ideally, the Pothos grows their best when temperatures are between 70°-90°F.
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Hardiness Zones10|11
Outside: Grow in full sun (6-8 hours) to partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.
Indoors: The Golden Pothos prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
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FertilizingSeasonally
Fertilize every two to three months during their growing period in the spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball.
Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
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CleaningMonthly
To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles: Shower them from above. Fill a watering-can with filtered, distilled, or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours and is free of chemicals (chlorine or fluoride). Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can. Trim off any yellow leaves with sterile scissors. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish soil if needed. Inspect for any insects at this time. Prune the vines up to 2 inches from the soil line to create lushness at the top. As they spills over the rim of the container, trim to maintain their shape and size at your preference. Remove any dried or discolored leaves to keep the plant vigorous.
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PropagationStem Cutting
Stem Cutting: In early spring, take a pothos cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 5-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours.
After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.
Division: Divide the Golden Pothos in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and cut through the roots with a sharp knife or pruners. Repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix. Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the roots at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom if necessary. Set them in bright, indirect sunlight and water. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.
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LightMedium
Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.
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WaterMedium
Water thoroughly, but allow them to dry slightly between waterings.
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HumidityHigh
Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 60 to 90
Ideally, the Flamingo Flower likes it on average of 68° at night and upwards of 86°F during daylight hours.
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Hardiness Zones10|11
Outside: Grow in early morning sun (2-4 hours) where nights are above 60°F.
Indoors: The Flamingo Flower prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
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FertilizingMonthly
Fertilize once a month during the growing spring and summer with a balanced liquid fertilizer or topical granular soil fertilizer. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.
Leach salt residue buildup away by flushing the potted plant each month. Let the water run out the drain holes.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
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CleaningMonthly
Gently wipe clean with a soft, damp cloth or paper towel. Work gently from the stem's base toward the leaf's tip, cleaning both sides at once. After cleaning the leaves, remove any dead leaves or debris on the surface of the soil.
Refreshen the soil mixture if needed.
Prune away damaged or diseased leaves or flowers down to the stem base with sterile scissors.
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PropagationDivision
Indoors: Propagate and divide Flamingo Flowers in the early spring when emerging from dormancy.
Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and keep at least two rhizomes together and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix.
Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Place the rhizomes at least 1-2 inches down into the soil.
Set in bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting.
Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to form. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are establishing.
Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the tubers up, avoiding damaging the rhizomes. Divide the rhizomes and plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location.
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LightMedium
Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.
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WaterLow
Don't overwater. Too much water can cause root or crown rot.
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HumidityHigh
Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 60 to 80
Ideally, the Bromeliads grow best when temperatures are between 60°-80°F.
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Hardiness Zones10|11
Outside: Grow in partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.
Indoors: The Bromeliad prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
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FertilizingMonthly
Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.
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Re-pottingRarely
To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy.
Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage.
Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.
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CleaningAfter bloom begins to die
Remove the dead or dying part with some pruners back to the base. This simple pruning will give more light to the remaining pups with more room to stretch and make new baby bromeliads.
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PropagationCuttings
To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so it drains through the hole. Set in a bright, indirect sunny area.
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LightMedium
This fern likes eastern facing light. Avoid hotter facing windows and direct sunlight to avoid burning the fronds.
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WaterMedium
Keep the potting soil moist during the growing season. Allow the top soil to dry on the first 25% during the winter months.
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HumidityMedium
Keep this plant on a pebble tray or near a humidifier to raise the humidity levels.
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Temperature 55 to 75
This fern likes warm temperatures but slightly cooler at night.
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Hardiness Zones10|11
Use as a groundcover in warmer climates. Overwinter in a container where temperatures are at 60°F or higher.
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FertilizingEvery two weeks
Fertilize twice a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer into the water while watering. Use half the recommended strength. Fertilize in the spring and summer months but let the plant rest in the fall and winter.
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Re-potting3 Years
When receiving the Rabbit Foot Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit for an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow them to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 50% coconut coir to help retain moisture.
Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim them off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, you may also divide them to make two plants by cutting through the roots with a clean knife and planting in separate pots.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Please do not cover the Rabbit Foot's rhizomes (the fuzzy stems) but let them sit on top of the soil to avoid rotting. These will grow over the pot in time.
Water thoroughly, and let them drain. If settling occurs, add more soil. -
CleaningMonthly
When watering your fern, give them an overhead shower to knock off the dust. During watering and fertilizing is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. Avoid trimming the fern's top, if possible, except for the dead, damaged, or diseased parts. Bravo! Now your fern looks like they just had a face-lift!
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PropagationDivision
Indoors: Propagate and divide Rabbit Foot Fern in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide by using a sterile knife, cutting in half or quarters, and repotting in a rich, indoor potting soil mix amended with coconut coir.
Use a container that is two inches wider than the root ball. Make sure it has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow.
Set them in medium indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Enclose the new plantings in clear plastic bags and mist several times a week to keep the humidity high. Remove the plastic bag when the roots establish. You may observe some leaf changes as they acclimate to their new environment. They may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as they regains their energy and gets rooted into the soil over time. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish.
After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to settle. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. You can remove the clear plastic bag at this time but still maintain high humidity around the plant.
Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up. Separate the plant with a sterile knife cutting the root ball into halves or quarters depending on its size. Plant these in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Then water with filtered or rainwater at the soil level.
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LightHigh
Best in medium to bright indirect light.
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WaterMedium
Water well when received, then allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Enjoys being on the moist side.
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HumidityMedium
Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 60 to 85
Keep in their ideal temperatures so that they will remain healthy.
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Hardiness Zones9|10
Outside: Keep in filtered sun to full shade. Nightime temperatures need to remain above 50°F for healthy growth.
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FertilizingSeasonally
Apply a slow release fertilizer especially formulated for rose plants because these palms like the magnesium to prevent yellow spots on the fronds. Apply once during the spring, summer and fall season. If using a liquid fertilizer, use at half strength monthly throughout the growing season. Let rest during the winter.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
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CleaningBi-annually
Use sterilized pruners and remove any dead, damaged, or diseased fronds off the plant. Wear gloves to remove the sharp spines at the leaflets' base on the fronds. Prune away fronds that are at the base of the plant. It is not unusual that the plant will shed their lower leaves from time to time. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:
Place the palm in a shower or tub.
Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.
Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.
Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.
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PropagationCuttings
Release the soil around the sucker with a garden fork. Carefully uncover and remove the sucker and associated roots. Do not disturb the mother plant.
Using a sharp knife to cut the sucker while keeping in tack the detached portions fibrous roots. Repair and add soil around the parent plant.
Reduce long, leafy shoots by removing about half of the stem and leaves.
Plant the sucker into a well-draining potting mix with perlite added.
Water well after securing the soil around the roots. Keep a consistent watering schedule for the first year.
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LightMedium
Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.
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WaterMedium
Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.
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HumidityHigh
Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.
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Temperature 65 to 90
The Swiss Cheese Plant likes warmth and to stay above 50°F with high humidity.
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Hardiness Zones8|9|10|11
Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 50°F.
Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
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FertilizingMonthly
Fertilize during their growing period in the spring and summer months between February and October every 2-3 weeks. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce fertilizing during the fall and winter to once a month while the plant is in their dormant phase. Raise the humidity around them and never use chlorine or fluoride in the water.
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Re-potting2 Years
When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.
Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.
Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.
Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.
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CleaningBi-annually
Wear gloves while working with this plant, as they have a sap that causes skin irritation. Trim off any yellowing bottom leaves down to the base of the stem using a sharp knife. Remove any debris off the soil surface. Train your plant to grow up a moss pole and tie them up to promote upward growth. Wipe the leaves with a clean, damp cloth using filtered or rain water. Support the leaf by wiping them from the stem to the tip of the leaf on both sides. Spritzing the leaves is another way to wet them and wipe them clean.
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PropagationCuttings
Take cuttings just below an aerial root.
Remove the bottom leaves on the stem with sterile scissors or a knife. Place the cutting in a container tall enough to hold the leaf upright. Add about an inch of water at the bottom and change the water weekly.
Keep the leaf in medium indirect sunlight while they are beginning to form roots.
Once roots are at least 1-2 inches long, plant them with rooting hormone mixed into the well-draining potting mix.
Water and place in bright to medium, indirect light.
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LightMedium
Medium to bright indirect light.
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WaterHigh
Keep the soil moist consistently (but not soggy).
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HumidityHigh
Give this palm a spritz daily!
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Temperature 50 to 80
This plant loves heat and humidity so the warmer the better. Keep away from heating vents or direct sunlight though as the leaves could burn.
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Hardiness Zones4|5|6|7|8|9|10|11|12
Outdoors in full sun, where nights are above 40°F.
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FertilizingMonthly
Indoor: Feed monthly in the spring and summer months and reduce to once or twice during the fall and winter months. :: Outdoor: Apply fertilizer around the drip line of the plant and follow manufacturer's directions for use. Apply in three times a year in the spring, summer and fall.
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Re-potting2 Years
Repotting detail
Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining with good aeration. You may add peat moss to the soil to keep them light.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root clump.
Lift the plant and inspect the root clump. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles.
After transplanting, the Cat Palm may experience some transplant shock after the process. Allow the palm to rest during this time in a partial shady area if outdoors or bright, indirect light when indoors.
Keep them well-watered and add humidity around them as they are getting established.
Outdoors:
Before planting or repotting in a container, water the plant in the grower pot well and let drain.
Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.
Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise them above the soil level for good drainage.
Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold.
Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink.
Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one third to one half (if the native soil is clay).
Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture.
Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container.
Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water and keep consistently moist but not soggy. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.
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CleaningAs needed
Keep yellowing or browning fronds cut off. If tips get burned, trim off the edges at an angle so they looks more natural. Keep the soil clean and replenish with soil if depleted.
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PropagationSeeds
This coconut palm, if in it's ideal conditions and allowed to fully grow, will produce coconut seeds that can be planted.
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LightMedium
Medium to bright indirect light.
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WaterHigh
Keep the soil moist consistently (but not soggy).
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HumidityHigh
Spritz daily
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Temperature 50 to 80
This plant loves heat and humidity so the warmer the better. Keep away from heating vents or direct sunlight though as the leaves could burn.
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Hardiness Zones11|12
Outdoors in part sun (4-6 hours), where nights are above 40°F.
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FertilizingMonthly
Interior: Feed the Cat Palm monthly in the spring and summer months and reduce to once or twice during the fall and winter months. :: Exterior: Apply fertilizer around the drip line of the plant and follow manufacturer's directions for use. Apply in three times a year in the spring, summer and fall.
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Re-potting3 Years
Repotting details
Cat Palms like to be rootbound, so don't repot until the roots grow out of the pot's holes. When the plant is rootbound and ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter.
Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining with good aeration. You may add peat moss to the soil to keep them light.
Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root clump.
Lift the plant and inspect the root clump. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.
Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level.
Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles.
After transplanting, the Cat Palm may experience some transplant shock after the process. Allow the palm to rest during this time in a partial shady area if outdoors or bright, indirect light when indoors.
Keep them well-watered and add humidity around them as they are getting established.
Outdoors:
Before planting or repotting in a container, water the plant in the grower pot well and let drain.
Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 4-6 hours of direct sunlight each day.
Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise them above the soil level for good drainage.
Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold.
Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink.
Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one third to one half (if the native soil is clay).
Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture.
Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container.
Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water and keep consistently moist but not soggy. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.
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CleaningMonthly
Keep yellowing or browning fronds cut off. If tips get burned, trim off the edges at an angle so they looks more natural. Keep the soil clean and replenish with soil if depleted.
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PropagationDivision
Divide your palm by dividing the established plant. Remove the clump from the container after watering to help loosen the soil. Wash off the soil and gently brush away the soil from their roots. Identify where the stalks are attached to the roots. Take a sharp, sterilized garden knife and split the clump in half or thirds. Keep the knife disinfected as cuts are made throughout the root system to avoid spreading diseases.
You can also remove suckers that grow straight upward from the root ball. Loosen the soil away from the roots and separate the sucker from the mother plant. If needed, cut the roots away from the clump carefully. Follow our potting instructions to keep your new baby plant happy!
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Customer Reviews
- LDLindy D.Verified BuyerI do not recommend this productWhat is your plant experience? BeginnerRated 1 out of 5 stars9 months agoQuite pricey for some sad plants
My extra large plants were very small :/
Dirt had spilt everywhere in the bags they were delivered in.
The bags were tied so tight that removing them caused a huge mess.
The pots were not the size that were described to me when purchased so my planter pots were all too big.
My flower died with in two days :/
Was this helpful? - BBBillie B.Verified BuyerI recommend this productWhat is your plant experience? BeginnerRated 5 out of 5 stars1 year agoI love my plants and
I love my plants and how fast I received them thank you
Was this helpful? - WSWendy S.Verified BuyerI recommend this productRated 5 out of 5 stars1 year agoPlant arrived safely, in healthy
Plant arrived safely, in healthy condition. It is lovely!
Was this helpful? - NBNicholas B.Verified BuyerI recommend this productRated 5 out of 5 stars1 year agoIndoor jungle purchase
The plants came in excellent condition, and very healthy.
Was this helpful? - YGYolanda G.Verified BuyerI recommend this productRated 4 out of 5 stars1 year agoGreat unexpected gift that lasts beyond the date.
Purchased these as a gift for my daughter. She was very excited, expressing her desire to have more plants in her home.
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