Enjoys medium to bright indirect sunlight indoors or in full shade, frost-free outdoor areas.

Keep consistently moist but can be forgiving if neglected at times.

These plants enjoy high levels of humidity indoors and outside.

Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F

Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month.

When receiving the Lemon Button Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little crowded in their pot.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining potting soil amended with peat moss and perlite to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, and unlike their cousins, they like to have a bit drier soil conditions. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your fern, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. To revitalize them, cut all the old foliage down to the crown and avoid cutting off any rolled fiddleheads that are popping up. This will eventually produce new foliage for the year and keep your plant healthy.

Propagate and divide your Lemon Button Fern in the spring.

Hydrate the plant the night before.

Pull from the container and carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife. Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix amended with a rooting hormone. Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached.

Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.

Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.

Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment. This particular fern does better with dryer soil conditions. Water weekly and keep on a consistent schedule.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the humidity high while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.

Prefers medium levels of indirect light.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts below 50°F or it could slow their growth.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 50°F.

Apply a slow release fertilizer to the soil surface and as you water, the nutrients will release. Replenish as needed. Follow this fertilizing in the spring and summer months and slow down during the fall and winter time.

When receiving the Neanthe Bella Palm, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining potting soil amended with perlite and rooting hormone to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, and if settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your palm, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. If tips of the leaves are browning, trim the ends off to help the plant regain strength. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.

To propagate your Neanthe Bella Palm:

Water your plant the night before dividing.

Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If it is root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.

Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.

Ensure you have several healthy stalks and leaves attached to the clumps.

Divide each clump into its pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for its roots to grow.

Plant in well draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set it in medium, indirect sunlight.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.

Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while it recovers. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

This plant prefers low to medium levels of indirect sunlight.

Water well, but make sure the soil doesn't become soggy.

Does well with moderate humidity.

Spider plants will endure temperatures as low as 35°F without injury, but temperatures below 65°F retard growth. Temperatures above 90°F will not immediately damage the plant but raise the transpiration rate and increase the uptake of potentially toxic micronutrients.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, to medium indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce fertilizing during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. If brown tips form, withdraw from fertilizing. Raise the humidity around them and never use chlorinated or fluoride in the water.

Repot the Spider Plant in the early spring in a well draining soil mix. Use a container with drainage holes. Add a piece of screen to keep the soil from spilling out but allowing drainage. Water the plant ahead of time to hydrate. Add the mix to the bottom of the new slightly larger container. Tease the roots if they are root bound in the pot. Carefully place them in the center, adding backfill around the edges. Leave a 1/2 inch of space between the soil and the top edge to prevent water spillage. Water thoroughly and let drain.

If foliage needs a trim back, use sterilized scissors. Cut back to the base of the stem and the spiderettes. Trim off any blackened or brown tips to keep energy going to the main plant. Remove any dead, damaged or diseased leaves and clean debris from soil. Replenish soil as needed.

Remove a spiderette from the mother plant. Dip the end where the leaves originate into rooting hormone powder. Place in dampened soil. Cover the spiderettes with a clear, plastic bag and mist. Check soil moisture periodically. Within six weeks, the roots should be getting established. Place in bright to medium, indirect light and follow care instructions.

Prefers medium levels of indirect light.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in warmer temperatures and avoid drastic changes in temperature.

This plant likes warmer temperatures and can be acclimated to part shade to full sun over time. Bring in when temperatures dip below 35°F.

Add a time-release fertilizer to the top of the soil in the spring. This will be sufficient throughout the season. Do not fertilize in the fall and winter months.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately. Wait at least 6-12 months, or until the roots begin to crowd and grow through the drainage holes.

This plant likes to be a little snug in its pot so there is no reason to repot initially. If the soil is aged, repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or use a palm soil mix.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow water to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball.

Be aware that the roots are brittle, so carefully remove as much soil around the roots as possible to replace the aged soil and fertilizer deposits.

Very carefully lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Remove any dead fronds down to the base of the plant. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil when needed.

This plant is hard to propagate. We recommend getting a small plant to nurture!

Bright, indirect light to filtered sun.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Enjoys moderate to high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Money Tree likes the room temperature at 72°F. They handle warmth rather than cold so keep them away from cold drafts.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: The Money Tree prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase and refrain from watering as much so they can rest.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Prune the leaves to stimulate new growth by cutting in front of a leaf node. Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep them healthy.

Stem Cutting: In early summer, take a stem cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 4-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours. After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it is time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Best in medium to bright indirect light.

Water well when received, then allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Enjoys being on the moist side.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep in their ideal temperatures so that they will remain healthy.

Outside: Keep in filtered sun to full shade. Nightime temperatures need to remain above 50°F for healthy growth.

Apply a slow release fertilizer especially formulated for rose plants because these palms like the magnesium to prevent yellow spots on the fronds.  Apply once during the spring, summer and fall season. If using a liquid fertilizer, use at half strength monthly throughout the growing season. Let rest during the winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Use sterilized pruners and remove any dead, damaged, or diseased fronds off the plant. Wear gloves to remove the sharp spines at the leaflets' base on the fronds. Prune away fronds that are at the base of the plant. It is not unusual that the plant will shed their lower leaves from time to time. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.

Release the soil around the sucker with a garden fork. Carefully uncover and remove the sucker and associated roots. Do not disturb the mother plant.

Using a sharp knife to cut the sucker while keeping in tack the detached portions fibrous roots. Repair and add soil around the parent plant.

Reduce long, leafy shoots by removing about half of the stem and leaves. 

Plant the sucker into a well-draining potting mix with perlite added.

Water well after securing the soil around the roots. Keep a consistent watering schedule for the first year.

Bright indirect sunlight.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant between temperatures of 68°F-78°F indoors with plenty of humidity. They can survive a temps in the 40's and 50's but not for long.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F

Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants twice a year in the spring and summer.

When receiving the Boston Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little crowded in their pot. 

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.   

Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.

When watering your fern, it's an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. Avoid trimming the fern's top, if possible, except for the dead, damaged, or diseased parts. Instead, shape them up by cutting the side leaves from the base. Bravo! Now your fern looks like they just had a face-lift!

Propagate and divide your Boston Fern in the spring.

Hydrate the plant the night before. 

Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife.              

Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix amended with a rooting hormone.  Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached. 

Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for its roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. 

Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.

Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. 

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.

Enjoys medium to bright indirect light.

Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace they into the cache or decorative pot. When the plant is registering a 3-4 on the soil moisture (dry side), it is time to water!

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 60°F-75°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 55°F. They thrive in warmer and humid temperatures with plenty of humidity.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F.

This plant has a small root system so too much fertilizer will burn the plant. You can fertilize three times a year in the spring, summer and fall. Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants during the growing season and let them rest in the winter.

When receiving the Peperomia "Red Margin," do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.) Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Peperomia "Red Margin." it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. When pruning, use clean, sharp pruners. Cut above a node or where the leaves emerge on the side of the stem. Branching will occur and encourage a bushier and fuller plant. Use these cuttings to propagate. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves: Place the Peperomia "Red Margin" in a shower or tub. Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride. Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt. Let the water drain and replace your plant in the decorative container.

To propagate this plant during the growing season: Take a 4-6 inch stem cutting in the early spring. Use a knife or sharp pruners, cut below a node where there are at least three leaves. Remove the bottom leaves to expose the node. Place the stem in a glass jar and fill with filtered water and watch the roots grow! Replace and freshen the water each week. After the roots are six weeks old, add the cuttings to moistened potting soil, continue to water, and give them the bright, indirect lighting requirements. To propagate this plant by division during the growing season: Water your plant the a couple days before dividing. Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If they are root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil. Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots. Divide each clump into their pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for its roots to grow. Plant in well-draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set them in medium, indirect sunlight. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting. Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while they recover. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Give this plant bright, indirect light in a southern-facing window or a combination of exposures. The brighter the light, the more increased waviness of the leaves.

Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let the roots sit in standing water. Keep the soil consistently moist and well-drained. When watering, avoid the frond rosette to prevent rotting. Keep the leaves dry to avoid fungal and bacterial infections.

Enjoys medium to high humidity. Add a pebble tray or humidifier to keep the humidity around them high but don't spritz the leaves as that can cause fungal and bacterial infections. Keep the leaves dry.

This plant likes warmer temperatures. Keep it out of cold drafts.

Outside: Keep them in shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 65°F.

Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter. Note: If the leaves lose the wavy edges, your plant may be getting too much fertilizer. If so, fertilize once a month.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite with an equal mix of charcoal to help with drainage and hold plant nutrients.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Misting the leaves daily will keep the leaves on this plant clean. Remove any debris from the soil surface and replenish if needed. Trimi any damaged or browning tips and avoid letting water or debris fall into the rosette.

Birds nest fern is very tough to propagate for the average gardener.

If you adventurous and a bit curious, try reproducing your own bird's nest fern by harvesting its spores. The spores are the small rows of brownish, fuzzy spots along the bottom of the leaves. When these spores look fat and fuzzy, trim off the leaf they're on by cutting it down to the bottom of the stem. Delicately set them into a paper plate. Over the next few days, the spores should fall onto the paper plate as they dry.

Afterward, gather several containers of sphagnum moss. Spread the spores over the top surface, and keep them uncovered. Put your pots of moss and spores in a dish of water to bottom soak through the moss. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a mini "greenhouse" to keep humidity high, or hand-mist the top daily. Keep the temperatures between 70-80 degrees in bright, indirect light.

Germination starts in approximately 2-3 weeks if the humidity is kept high. Once the sprouts have grown, remove the plastic cover. Provide high humidity around the leaves as they grow by using a pebble tray and humidifier.

This plant enjoys bright to medium indirect light.
 

Keep the soil slightly moist and water when the soil reaches a #5 on the moisture meter. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let the roots sit in standing water. During winter months, water less frequently but keep it humid around the plant.
 

Add up to 60% humidity by adding a pebble tray filled with water, grouping with other plants or using a humidifier. This plant has a thinner leaf, therefore needs more humidity around it to avoid drying out.
 

Guard your Prayer Plant against temperatures below 65°F to avoid foliage damage.
 

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F. Indoors: The Prayer Plant prefers bright to medium, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.
 

Fertilize monthly during its growing period. Use a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer at half strength to increase foliage health. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in its dormant phase. Flush the soil periodically to eliminate salts from fertilizing.
 

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.
 

Indoors: Propagate and divide Prayer Plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix or African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set it in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Enclose the new plantings in clear plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. You can remove the clear plastic bag at this time but still maintain high humidity around the plant.