Prefers medium levels of indirect light.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts below 50°F or it could slow their growth.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 50°F.

Apply a slow release fertilizer to the soil surface and as you water, the nutrients will release. Replenish as needed. Follow this fertilizing in the spring and summer months and slow down during the fall and winter time.

When receiving the Neanthe Bella Palm, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining potting soil amended with perlite and rooting hormone to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, and if settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your palm, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. If tips of the leaves are browning, trim the ends off to help the plant regain strength. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.

To propagate your Neanthe Bella Palm:

Water your plant the night before dividing.

Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If it is root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.

Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.

Ensure you have several healthy stalks and leaves attached to the clumps.

Divide each clump into its pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for its roots to grow.

Plant in well draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set it in medium, indirect sunlight.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.

Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while it recovers. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Avoid any sudden temperature changes. Keep humidity high in warmer temperatures.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: This plant prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix.

Water your plant in the old pot and let sit an hour before transferring. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Enclose the new plantings in plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as they acclimates to their new environment. They may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as they regains their energy and gets rooted into the soil over time.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Indoors: Propagate and divide Peacock plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix or African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Water with filtered or rain water at soil level.

Enjoys medium to bright indirect sunlight indoors or in full shade, frost-free outdoor areas.

Keep consistently moist but can be forgiving if neglected at times.

These plants enjoy high levels of humidity indoors and outside.

Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F

Apply at half-strength a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month.

When receiving the Lemon Button Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little crowded in their pot.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining potting soil amended with peat moss and perlite to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, and unlike their cousins, they like to have a bit drier soil conditions. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your fern, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. To revitalize them, cut all the old foliage down to the crown and avoid cutting off any rolled fiddleheads that are popping up. This will eventually produce new foliage for the year and keep your plant healthy.

Propagate and divide your Lemon Button Fern in the spring.

Hydrate the plant the night before.

Pull from the container and carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife. Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix amended with a rooting hormone. Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached.

Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for their roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom.

Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.

Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment. This particular fern does better with dryer soil conditions. Water weekly and keep on a consistent schedule.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the humidity high while the roots establish.

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around them with a pebble tray and misting.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Don't overwater. Too much water can cause root or crown rot.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Bromeliads grow best when temperatures are between 60°-80°F.

Outside: Grow in partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 60°F.

Indoors: The Bromeliad prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.

To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy.

Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage.

Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.

Remove the dead or dying part with some pruners back to the base. This simple pruning will give more light to the remaining pups with more room to stretch and make new baby bromeliads.

To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so it drains through the hole. Set in a bright, indirect sunny area.

Outdoors:This plant loves the sun and can be put on a patio outdoors in full sun to part shade where the temperatures don't dip below 50°F. Indoors: The Hibiscus shrub can be overwintered indoors in a brightly lit location. These plants may drop their buds in protest when positions are changed.

Use unsoftened, filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Replenish the soil moisture when it falls below 5 on the plant meter. Keep them consistently moist during the growing season (but not soggy) and let them dry out to a 3 on the moisture meter in winter months when they are dormant. If yellowing leaves occur, back off on the watering and let the soil dry out a bit more between waterings.

Hibiscus needs humidity at a rate of 40-60%. Use a pebble tray, humidifier and group plants together to raise the humidity levels.

This tropical plant loves warm climates and moderate humidity.

This plant will not tolerate frost or temperatures below 60°F if left outside.

Container: When the plant is rootbound or there is dieback on their growth, they are ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter. Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim them off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles. Outdoors: Before planting the Hibiscus into the ground, water the plant in the grower pot well. Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise it above the soil level for good drainage. Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold. Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink. Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one-third to one-half (if the native soil is clay). Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture. Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container. Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water lightly. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.

Prune in early spring and remove up to 1/3 of old wood to keep the plant blooming and dense with new growth.

Take green stem cuttings from the tips of the parent plant. Cut with sterile scissors taking a 3-6 inch cutting. Dip in rooting hormone and place them in moist potting soil. Cover with a clear plastic bag to retain moisture and humidity while they root. Keep the cuttings in bright, indirect light. After four weeks, check the rooting of the baby cutting by pulling gently on the leaf. If they are snug, then roots are forming. Keep them covered until new shoots appear. Remove the clear bag at this point and keep evenly moist and humidity levels high while they mature. Avoid moving locations during propagation.

Grows best in bright, direct light.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. Enjoys being on the most, but not soggy side.

Enjoys some humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep in them in ideal temperatures so that they will remain healthy.

Outside: Keep out of direct light as that will burn the leaves. Keep in part shade or early morning sun (4-6 hours). Nightime temperatures need to remain above 45°F for healthy growth.

Apply a slow release fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants. Apply once during the spring, summer and fall season. Let rest during the winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite, pumice or peat moss to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Only remove any dead, damaged or diseased fronds off the plant. Yellowing leaves are still absorbing nutrients and photosynthesizing so wait until the frond is completely brown before removing. If needed, cut the oldest and lowest leaves as close to the trunk as possible with a sterilized sharp knife. Clean any debris on the soil and refresh the soil. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.

Propagate the sago palm by harvesting offsets, or pups, at the base or along the trunk's sides.

Remove them in early spring or late fall.

Gently dig with a spade while keeping the taproot in place on the baby sago palm. Lift them from the base or pop them from the trunk using a sharp knife.

Use a mix of 50% well-draining potting soil, 20% sphagnum moss, 10% perlite, 10% sand, and 10% compost.

Use containers with drain holes and four times the circumference of the plant.

Plant and keep the top 1/3 of the pup out of the soil. Fill the container with soil leaving about an inch from the top to prevent water spillage.

Water well. If the soil settles, add more soil around the pup, leaving about 1/3 of them exposed on top.

Wash off the leaves to remove any soil and debris.

Place in a bright indirect light area and water them consistently.

Note: These plants only grow about 1-2 inches per year. It might be several years before many fronds mature.

Bright, indirect light to filtered sun.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Enjoys moderate to high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Money Tree likes the room temperature at 72°F. They handle warmth rather than cold so keep them away from cold drafts.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: The Money Tree prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase and refrain from watering as much so they can rest.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Prune the leaves to stimulate new growth by cutting in front of a leaf node. Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep them healthy.

Stem Cutting: In early summer, take a stem cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 4-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours. After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it is time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Set this plant in a place where they will receive bright, indirect light for favorable results.

Use unsoftened, filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Replenish the water when the soil is dry or when your plant meter registers at 3-4.

Bromeliads need humidity at a rate of 40-60%. Use a pebble tray, humidifier and group plants together to raise the humidity levels.

This tropical plant loves warm climates and humidity.

In nature, this plant will grow attached to the side of a tree and the canopy of a tree from direct sun.

Fertilize monthly during their growing period while the flower is in bloom with a balanced liquid fertilizer and a time release granular soil fertilizer. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase. When fertilizing, don't get the fertilizer in the urn or tank as this can burn the plant.

To repot a bromeliad grown out of their container, get a larger one that's 2 inches wider with drainage holes. Make sure the container is sturdy enough if the bromeliad is top-heavy. Use a mixture of 1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Fill the container's bottom with the mix, then place the bromeliad in and fill around the edges. Leave at least an inch of room from the top of the container to avoid water spillage. Water the plant well. Add them to an area with bright, indirect sunlight and humidity to let them settle into their new environment.

When the flower fades and turns brown, remove the flower stalk as far down as you can cut with sharp clippers. Once pups or offshoots are one-third the size of the mother plant, they can be removed with their roots attached and planted. The mother plant will not produce any more flowers and eventually, die.

To propagate the bromeliad pups, let the pups grow on the mother plant until they reach at least 5 inches or a third of the original stalk's size. Take the mother plant out of the pot. Cut the mother plant top off to see the pup and remove all the dead leaves. Pull away the pup and the small root system with them. You may need to use pruners to help remove the roots and pup. Some arm strength may be required to wedge them away from the parent plant. Once you have them separated, you can use a bromeliad medium (1/2 well-draining potting mix, 1/4 perlite, and 1/4 orchid bark) to repot them in. Use a container with drainage holes and nothing too big for the pup. Allow at least 2 inches of soil to surround the pup. You will bury the roots very shallow in the soil so as not to cause rotting on the leaves. Tamp the mix down to secure the plant. Water from overhead to give them a drink and water well so it drains through the hole. Set them in a bright, indirect sunny area.

Bright indirect sunlight.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant between temperatures of 68°F-78°F indoors with plenty of humidity. They can survive a temps in the 40's and 50's but not for long.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 55°F

Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants twice a year in the spring and summer.

When receiving the Boston Fern, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes. They prefer to be a little crowded in their pot. 

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.   

Water well to dampen the soil and let it drain.

When watering your fern, it's an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. Cut the stem all the way back to the base. Avoid trimming the fern's top, if possible, except for the dead, damaged, or diseased parts. Instead, shape them up by cutting the side leaves from the base. Bravo! Now your fern looks like they just had a face-lift!

Propagate and divide your Boston Fern in the spring.

Hydrate the plant the night before. 

Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully around the roots. Carefully divide or cut through the clump with a sterilized knife.              

Repot the fern in rich, indoor peat-based potting soil mix amended with a rooting hormone.  Be aware that each new plant needs several leaves with sufficient roots attached. 

Use a container 2 inches bigger than the root ball with drainage and deep enough for its roots to grow. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. 

Water the soil and add more soil if settling occurs.

Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Place a large, clear plastic bag, spritz with water on the interior and place over the new plant to create a humid environment.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. 

After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Remove the plastic bag but keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Let the soil dry between waterings.

No extra humidity required.

Keep this plant consistently in warm temperatures inside with nighttime temperatures decreasing to only 60°F-70°F.

Outside: Grow in dappled shade in morning sun where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: The Chinese Money Plant enjoys medium to bright, indirect light.

Water the Chinese Money Plant one day prior to fertilizing. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or a cacti and succulent mix. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.

In early spring, take a pilea cutting, use a sharp knife to cut off pinkish red baby offshoots from the main stem.  Remove at least an inch of stalk under the soil leading to the main stem. Be careful not to catch the knife of the healthy leaves on the mother plant. 

If there is no root ball, remove all the soil and place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled or tap water that has been sitting at least 24 hours. 

If there is a root ball, then separate the mother plant from the babies and pot up. Follow the instructions below.*

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has well formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. 

*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it difficult to regulate watering needs) using indoor well-draining potting mix such as cacti and succulent mix. 

Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it. 

Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should be established.