Prefers medium levels of indirect light.

Water well and then allow the soil to dry out between each watering.

Enjoys humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep this plant on the warmer side and avoid cold drafts below 50°F or it could slow their growth.

Outside: Keep them in full shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 50°F.

Apply a slow release fertilizer to the soil surface and as you water, the nutrients will release. Replenish as needed. Follow this fertilizing in the spring and summer months and slow down during the fall and winter time.

When receiving the Neanthe Bella Palm, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to give the roots room to spread.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a rich, well-draining indoor potting mix amended with 25% compost and to help with fertility.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining potting soil amended with perlite and rooting hormone to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, and if settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your palm, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves. If tips of the leaves are browning, trim the ends off to help the plant regain strength. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.

To propagate your Neanthe Bella Palm:

Water your plant the night before dividing.

Inspect your plant for overcrowding. If it is root-bound in the pot, loosen the dirt around the root clump and brush away the soil.

Begin to tease and pull apart the mass of roots.

Ensure you have several healthy stalks and leaves attached to the clumps.

Divide each clump into its pot, measuring 2 inches wider than the root mass and deep enough for its roots to grow.

Plant in well draining potting mix amended with rooting hormone. Place the plant at the same level as the previous pot adding soil at the bottom. Water the soil and add more if settling occurs. Set it in medium, indirect sunlight.

Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to develop. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well.

Keep the air humid around it with a pebble tray and misting.

Some die off of stems may occur from transplant shock. If this happens, cut the branches away and continue to hydrate, and keep the humidity level at a medium level while it recovers. Adding a rooting hormone during planting will help diminish the symptoms of transplant shock.

Bright, indirect light to filtered sun.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings.

Enjoys moderate to high levels of humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Ideally, the Money Tree likes the room temperature at 72°F. They handle warmth rather than cold so keep them away from cold drafts.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: The Money Tree prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize bimonthly during their growing period. Use a balanced liquid fertilizer at 1/2 strength. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in their dormant phase and refrain from watering as much so they can rest.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage. Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain.

Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Prune the leaves to stimulate new growth by cutting in front of a leaf node. Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep them healthy.

Stem Cutting: In early summer, take a stem cutting, use sharp pruners to remove a cutting from a tip off the vine. Cut at least 4-6 inches of stem to propagate. Place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting at least 24 hours. After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has 1-2 inch, well-formed roots. If so, it is time to plant. *Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it challenging to regulate watering needs) using an indoor well-draining potting mix. Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around them. Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Let the soil dry between waterings.

No extra humidity required.

Keep this plant consistently in warm temperatures inside with nighttime temperatures decreasing to only 60°F-70°F.

Outside: Grow in dappled shade in morning sun where nights are above 50°F.

Indoors: The Chinese Money Plant enjoys medium to bright, indirect light.

Water the Chinese Money Plant one day prior to fertilizing. Fertilize once a month by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or a cacti and succulent mix. 

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. 

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. 

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. 

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

To clean the leaves and alleviate dust particles, give it a shower from above. Fill a watering can with filtered, distilled or tap water that has been sitting for 24 hours. Place the plant in a sink and lightly wash the leaves with a shower spray end watering can.

In early spring, take a pilea cutting, use a sharp knife to cut off pinkish red baby offshoots from the main stem.  Remove at least an inch of stalk under the soil leading to the main stem. Be careful not to catch the knife of the healthy leaves on the mother plant. 

If there is no root ball, remove all the soil and place in a vase with water to root. Change the water each week with filtered, bottled or tap water that has been sitting at least 24 hours. 

If there is a root ball, then separate the mother plant from the babies and pot up. Follow the instructions below.*

After 3-4 weeks, check to make sure the stem has well formed roots. If so, it's time to plant. 

*Fill a small container with drainage holes (too large of a container for the cutting will make it difficult to regulate watering needs) using indoor well-draining potting mix such as cacti and succulent mix. 

Mix a little rooting hormone into the soil. Poke a hole in the soil with a pencil. Then, place the cutting in the hole and tamp the soil down around it. 

Water the plant and keep them in medium to bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should be established.

Medium to bright indirect light. Never direct sunlight.

Enjoys being on the moist, but not soggy side.

Enjoys high humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Avoid any sudden temperature changes. Keep humidity high in warmer temperatures.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F.

Indoors: The Money Tree prefers bright, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix.

Water your plant in the old pot and let sit an hour before transferring. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Enclose the new plantings in plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as they acclimates to their new environment. They may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as they regains their energy and gets rooted into the soil over time.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Indoors: Propagate and divide Peacock plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in a rich, indoor potting soil mix or African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set them in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Water with filtered or rain water at soil level.

Enjoys bright, indirect light.

Allow the soil to dry out completely between waterings. Keep the soil moist, but not soggy.

Enjoys some humidity. Spritz occasionally.

Keep in their ideal temperatures so that they will remain healthy.

Outside: Keep out of direct light as the rays will burn the leaves. Keep in full shade. Nightime temperatures need to remain above 55°F for healthy growth.

The Lady Palm doesn't need much fertilizer. Too much will harm the plant. Fertilize once a year in the spring. Use liquid fertilizer at half strength'Äîwater the plant before fertilizing.

When receiving the Lady Palm plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot. (Too big of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.)

Try not to disturb the roots too much. These plants like to be a little root bound so don't go any bigger in pot size than recommended.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well draining potting mix with perlite or an African Violet mix to help with drainage.

Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the roots. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

As new leaves form, lower leaves will discolor and die off. Use sterile pruners and cut off the aging leaves. If tips of the leaves are browning, trim the ends off to help the plant regain strength. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed. To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, so each one is clear of dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your palm in the decorative container.

Remove a 6-8 inch cutting from the mother plant. Place the stem in water and replace every week. Once stem grows at least two inches of roots, poke a hole in damp soil and place the stem. Mix into the soil some rooting hormone. Cover the cutting with a clear, plastic bag and mist. Check soil moisture periodically. Within six weeks, the roots should be getting established. Place in bright to medium, indirect light and follow care instructions.

Outdoors:This plant loves the sun and can be put on a patio outdoors in full sun to part shade where the temperatures don't dip below 50°F. Indoors: The Hibiscus shrub can be overwintered indoors in a brightly lit location. These plants may drop their buds in protest when positions are changed.

Use unsoftened, filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Replenish the soil moisture when it falls below 5 on the plant meter. Keep them consistently moist during the growing season (but not soggy) and let them dry out to a 3 on the moisture meter in winter months when they are dormant. If yellowing leaves occur, back off on the watering and let the soil dry out a bit more between waterings.

Hibiscus needs humidity at a rate of 40-60%. Use a pebble tray, humidifier and group plants together to raise the humidity levels.

This tropical plant loves warm climates and moderate humidity.

This plant will not tolerate frost or temperatures below 60°F if left outside.

Container: When the plant is rootbound or there is dieback on their growth, they are ready to repot (early spring before growth starts), plant in a 2" bigger container in diameter and slightly deeper than the existing planter. Use an indoor container mix that is well-draining. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim them off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Do not cover the current level of soil on the plant but add soil up to this level. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. Add more soil after watering if the soil settles. Outdoors: Before planting the Hibiscus into the ground, water the plant in the grower pot well. Find a spot in the garden where there are at least 6 hours of direct sunlight each day. Be generous by digging a hole twice the pot's width and 1 inch shorter than the grower pot to raise it above the soil level for good drainage. Use a pitchfork or a sharp object to stab the soil walls to make several indentions for the roots to take hold. Tickle the roots to loosen them if they wrap inside the container. Place the plant in the center of the hole. Fill the hole with water first, so the roots get another good drink. Next, backfill with native soil mixed with compost by one-third to one-half (if the native soil is clay). Add a rooting hormone fertilizer to this backfill mixture. Tamp the soil firmly down around the edges and mound up. Avoid covering the original soil level of the plant that was in the container. Add mulch as needed but not next to the stem or branches of the plant. Water lightly. Continue to observe the soil moisture each day, depending on the temperatures and soil drainage.

Prune in early spring and remove up to 1/3 of old wood to keep the plant blooming and dense with new growth.

Take green stem cuttings from the tips of the parent plant. Cut with sterile scissors taking a 3-6 inch cutting. Dip in rooting hormone and place them in moist potting soil. Cover with a clear plastic bag to retain moisture and humidity while they root. Keep the cuttings in bright, indirect light. After four weeks, check the rooting of the baby cutting by pulling gently on the leaf. If they are snug, then roots are forming. Keep them covered until new shoots appear. Remove the clear bag at this point and keep evenly moist and humidity levels high while they mature. Avoid moving locations during propagation.

This plant enjoys bright to medium indirect light.

Keep the soil slightly moist and water when the soil reaches a #5 on the moisture meter. Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough to discharge out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace it into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let the roots sit in standing water. During winter months, water less frequently but keep it humid around the plant.

Add up to 60% humidity by adding a pebble tray filled with water, grouping with other plants or using a humidifier.

Avoid any sudden temperature changes. Keep humidity high in warmer temperatures.

Outside: Grow in morning light, partial shade (4-6 hours) where nights are above 45°F. Indoors: The Freddie Plant prefers bright to medium, indirect light for at least six hours in a southern, eastern and western windows.

Fertilize monthly during its growing period. Use a high nitrogen liquid fertilizer at half strength to increase foliage health. Reduce during the fall and winter months while the plant is in its dormant phase. Flush the soil periodically to eliminate salts from fertilizing.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months. Repot in the spring, using a 2" wider pot. (Too large of a pot could cause the soil to dry slower, which is not helpful.) Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage or an african violet potting mix. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen. Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling. Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over. Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil. Enclose the new plantings in plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time.

Trim off any dead or damaged stems to keep energy moving to the healthy leaves. Shower the leaves using a watering can with filtered or rainwater to remove dust. Remove any debris on the soil and replenish soil if needed.

Indoors: Propagate and divide Freddie Prayer plants in the early spring when emerging from dormancy. Pull from the container and brush or wash away the soil carefully. Carefully divide and repot in a rich African violet mix. Use a container that has drainage and is deep enough for the roots to grow. Set it in medium to bright, indirect sunlight while they are rooting. Enclose the new plantings in clear plastic bags, mist and keep them in medium light. Remove the plastic bag when the roots are established. You may observe some leaf changes as it acclimates to its new environment. It may suffer some transplant shock depending on how tight the roots were intertwined together. Trim off any declining leaves as it regains its energy and gets rooted into the soil over time. Check the moisture and humidity each day and add misting to keep the soil moist while the roots establish. After 6-8 weeks, roots will begin to establish. You can tug onto the stem to ensure the roots are anchoring well. You can remove the clear plastic bag at this time but still maintain high humidity around the plant. Outdoors: Carefully loosen the soil and dig the roots up and separate the plant in new locations in your garden. Add rich, damp, and loamy soil in a part-shade morning sun location. Water with filtered or rain water at soil level.

Plant in full sun (6-8 hours) to produce flowering stems.

Keep the plant in well draining soil and consistently moist for the best results.

Humidity isn't needed for this plant. It is used to arid climates.

This plant can withstand a frost after its fully established and rooted. It does best in temps between 60°F-70°F.

Grow outside in the full sun (6-8 hours). It is a perennial in zones 4-10 and will rejuvenate in spring after the last frost.

Give a dose of high potassium fertilizer in the spring.

To transplant into a garden bed, water your plant the night before. Cultivate the soil to an 8-10 inch depth. Dig the hole twice as wide as the grower pot and the same depth (not deeper). Remove the sage and center in the hole. Water in the hole and let drain. Add organic compost mixed with your native soil and mix. Fill around the plant and up to the top of its soil line. Tamp down with your hands to remove any air pockets. Water again around the drip line, then mulch up to the drip line of the plant to help retain moisture. Keep his soil moist as it gets established. He can take bouts of drought after he's established.

Clip the sage in the spring and several times throughout the growing season to boost his young shoots with a potent flavor. Trimming will limit legginess and flowering if you're using it for a culinary herb.

Water the mother plant the night before to hydrate all the stem ends. After adequate growth on the main plant, take a cutting, using sharp pruners to remove a softwood cutting measuring 3-5 inches. Remove any bottom leaves up 1-2 inches. Moisten a half mixture of sand and coir mix. Dip the end of the stem in rooting hormone and poke a tiny hole in the planting mix and plant the stem, then tamp the soil down around it to secure it. Water the plant often to keep the soil consistently moist while it roots. Place the cutting in bright indirect sunlight. After 4-6 weeks, the roots should establish. Acclimate the sage to normal light conditions a few hours a day, starting in the morning light and progressing each day over a two to three-week period. Transplant your new plant baby into rich garden soil in full sun and consistent soil moisture. Give a dose of high potassium fertilizer in the spring.

Give this plant bright, indirect light in a southern-facing window or a combination of exposures. The brighter the light, the more increased waviness of the leaves.

Use filtered, bottled, or tap water sitting 24 hours to release the chemicals and water enough that the water discharges out of the drainage holes. Once the water is fully drained, replace them into the cache or decorative pot. Don't let the roots sit in standing water. Keep the soil consistently moist and well-drained. When watering, avoid the frond rosette to prevent rotting. Keep the leaves dry to avoid fungal and bacterial infections.

Enjoys medium to high humidity. Add a pebble tray or humidifier to keep the humidity around them high but don't spritz the leaves as that can cause fungal and bacterial infections. Keep the leaves dry.

This plant likes warmer temperatures. Keep it out of cold drafts.

Outside: Keep them in shade on a patio out of direct sunlight to prevent leaf burn where nights are above 65°F.

Fertilize every two weeks during the growing season (spring and summer) by diluting a liquid fertilizer by half strength. Let the plant rest in the fall and winter. Note: If the leaves lose the wavy edges, your plant may be getting too much fertilizer. If so, fertilize once a month.

When receiving the plant, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2" bigger pot to keep the roots drier. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite with an equal mix of charcoal to help with drainage and hold plant nutrients.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let them sit an hour. Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to the soil and allow it to drain. Add soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, cut through the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1" below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil.

Misting the leaves daily will keep the leaves on this plant clean. Remove any debris from the soil surface and replenish if needed. Trimi any damaged or browning tips and avoid letting water or debris fall into the rosette.

Birds nest fern is very tough to propagate for the average gardener.

If you adventurous and a bit curious, try reproducing your own bird's nest fern by harvesting its spores. The spores are the small rows of brownish, fuzzy spots along the bottom of the leaves. When these spores look fat and fuzzy, trim off the leaf they're on by cutting it down to the bottom of the stem. Delicately set them into a paper plate. Over the next few days, the spores should fall onto the paper plate as they dry.

Afterward, gather several containers of sphagnum moss. Spread the spores over the top surface, and keep them uncovered. Put your pots of moss and spores in a dish of water to bottom soak through the moss. Cover the pot with a clear plastic bag to create a mini "greenhouse" to keep humidity high, or hand-mist the top daily. Keep the temperatures between 70-80 degrees in bright, indirect light.

Germination starts in approximately 2-3 weeks if the humidity is kept high. Once the sprouts have grown, remove the plastic cover. Provide high humidity around the leaves as they grow by using a pebble tray and humidifier.

Enjoys full sun or partial shade outside, or bright light inside.

Water well when received, then allow the soil to dry out between waterings.

Doesn't require high levels of humidity.

Keep this plant in rooms where the temperature is a comfortable 70°F-80°F and avoid cold drafts or air vents below 50°F.

Outside: Keep them in full sun (6-8 hours) on a patio where nights are above 50°F.

Apply a balanced, liquid fertilizer especially formulated for indoor plants every month.

When receiving the Ponytail Palm, do not repot immediately but wait at least 6-12 months or if the roots are beginning to get crowded and growing through the drainage holes.

Repot in the spring, using a 2 inches bigger pot to keep the roots drier. (Too big of a planter could cause the soil to dry slower.) We suggest using a taller container so the pretty tips of the leaves can dangle over the edges without hitting the table surface.

Place a piece of screening at the bottom of the container over the drainage hole to secure the soil and allow to drain. Use a well-draining indoor potting mix with perlite to help with drainage.

Water your plant in the old pot before transferring over and let sit an hour.

Add well-draining interior potting (cacti and succulent) soil to the bottom to elevate the root ball. Lift the plant and release the roots against the existing planter. Use a clean knife or garden trowel to wedge between the pot and the soil to loosen.

Inspect the root ball. Notice if there are any dead or rotting roots and trim off with sterile pruners. If the plant is rootbound, loosen the roots to alleviate continued encircling.

Ensure the plant is sitting about 1 inch below the edge of the pot to avoid water spillage. Add more soil and backfill around the sides by tamping down. Fill up to the soil line but not over.

Water thoroughly, leaving the soil damp but not soggy. If settling occurs, add more soil but do not cover the trunk above the surface.

Water well to dampen the soil and let drain.

When watering your Ponytail Palm, it is an excellent time to trim off any browning, yellowing, or discolored leaves or tips. When pruning, use clean, sharp pruners. Remove any debris from the soil and replenish if needed.

To clean debris and dust off the leaves:

Place the Ponytail Palm in a shower or tub.

Fill a watering can with a shower spout with filtered, bottled, or water free of chlorine and fluoride.

Shower the leaves, to clear off dust and dirt.

Let the water drain and replace your plant in the decorative container.

To propagate a Ponytail Palm divide the shoots from the parent plant. This is best done in the Spring. Water the plant to hydrate the plant the night before. Remove the soil around the trunk of the plant and base of the shoots. Dig deep to ensure the shoots have established enough roots to divide. The shoots or pups should be at least five inches tall. Do not disturb the mother plant.

Using a sharp knife to cut the shoot while keeping in tack the detached portions fibrous roots. Repair and add soil around the parent plant.

Plant the offshoot into a well-draining soilless mix such as a succulent and cacti mix or a sand-based potting soil. Amend the mix with a rooting hormone to help prevent transplant shock. Use a container two inches wider than the root base. Place the new plant so the top layer of soil is an inch below the top edge of the container to prevent water spillage.

Water well after securing the soil around the roots. Place a clear, plastic bag over the planter to keep humidity high and mist the inside of the bag. Place the planter in a warm, bright to moderate indirect light to root. Water approximately every two weeks and keep misting the plant and soil surface as they establishe. After the roots establish, the plastic can be removed.